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Thread: Torque
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    workinINtheDIRT is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Torque

     



    Need some advice about chaining a engine any input on fabrication or am I better of getting a torque strap or solid engine mounts..bbc

  2. #2
    HOSS429's Avatar
    HOSS429 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    it`s been a few hundred years since i seen a factory chain or cable on an engine when i worked at the junkyard .. i dont even remember which car had it .. someone should ..
    iv`e used up all my sick days at work .. can i call in dead ?

  3. #3
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
    Henry Rifle is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford Low Boy w/ZZ430 Clone
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    In what vehicle for what purpose?
    Jack

    Gone to Texas

  4. #4
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
    pat mccarthy is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    i run my big engine solid mount upper teeth still in my head . urethane is the best for many . can make up a torque link and used urethane bushing or sway bar bushing kit but bigger then a 5/16 hole min of 3/8
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  5. #5
    Kiwi37 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Ford Coupe
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    I've got a 'link' from my frame to the front of the motor, kinda like an alternator adjuster, you know , with the long slot.

    Only my link has slot only about 3/4" long so that is all the motor can move before getting pulled up short.
    '55 F100 hot-rod (owned 40 years)
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  6. #6
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Depends on the use of the motor and the car. If this is a competition motor, where driver comfort is secondary, then solid motor mounts or motor plates front and or rear will prevent the motor from torquing over toward the passenger side of the car. If this is a street motor and you are concerned about the motor torquing over and driver comfort is a consideration, use stock rubber mounts and install a torque strap from the front-most cylinder head bolt to the upper control arm mount on the frame. Such a strap can be made up from small diameter steel cable and parts at your local home depot or other building supply store. They have bulk cable on spools and you just buy the length you need, along with the ends/couplers you need.
    Here's a bad example of a chain used for the purpose....
    Engine1-Copy.jpg Photo by marlinguy | Photobucket
    Here's a more sophisticated arrangement with a solid strut....
    http://www.engine-swaps.com/Photos4W...alled%20bw.jpg
    Here's a chain run from one of the accessory bolt holes in the front of the head down to a frame bracket....
    TorqueStrap001.jpg Photo by dennis_8047 | Photobucket
    Here's a very ugly homemade installation of a cable....
    http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/atta...rque-cable.jpg
    Here's another solid rod installation....
    2011-04-29011.jpg Photo by kricka | Photobucket

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  7. #7
    workinINtheDIRT is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    thanks for the help this information was useful. im putting a 496 stroker in a 85 k10 pickup with six speed tranny dana 60 front and gm 14 bolt rear 4.10 gear its a muscle truck i guess

  8. #8
    workinINtheDIRT is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    the reason for the chain i made a custom set of headers because no one makes them with two inch primaries for that truck unless you want to spend 1500 so anyways because of clearance issues with the transfer case and front drive shaft an diameter of the pipe i had to hold them kinda tight to the frame im afraid when i put my foot in it there could be a problem plus the less the engine rock more power going back where you want it i could just go two wheel peel seeing how its gonna be a pavement pounder i live in Vermont i my be tempted to go offroad want 4 wheel i have six inchs of lift and thirty fives under it

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