Hand ported heads and they were from a junk yard
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Hand ported heads and they were from a junk yard
Great stuff Jerry!!!! The funny in the top picture, is that a Pinto body??? If so, you wouldn't have an extra laying around anymore, would you????:LOL::LOL::LOL:
The bottom pic is my favorite though!!!!! Takes a good Ford pickup to get the show on the road, huh?????:LOL::LOL:
Anyway, really kewl!!! No throttle stops, no delay boxes, no nothing! Just run whatcha brung!!!! Life used to be soooooooo much easier!!! Thanks for reminding us!!!!
That bottom ford truck is Don The Snake's--That night the guys were using Ramseys Merc wagon to push the car--my truck was in the pits--
Yes thats a Pinto--These three pictures were just sent to me and basiclly I'm just playing trying to fiqure out how to post pics--If you notice the spoiler on the pinto--we had lots of aero problems so I went to the fiberglas shop/painters--looked at the Mopar funny bodies that were running good--had the spoiler built to add the tail end profile of the Mopars to the Pinto, Cut out the tail lites and built a louvered back window with holesawed holes under the louvers to vent the inside air--then it worked!!!!and shortly thereafter someone came out with those louvers for the back windows of cars--
In the rear engine car pic, you can make out the SuranWrap?GladWrap? on the ends of the rear wing that we used during the burnouts and then tore off before the run--kept it not only cleaner but several lbs lighter by the time a race was over from the build up of burnout/tire goop!!!
Great information, Jerry!!!! Hope you're getting all this racing history written down somewhere, sure would make for good reading when folks are trying to remember how things really were!!!! Back then nobody had access to wind tunnels, just had to figure it out! You guys had something of an advantage there being in the flying biz you were aware of what the air could do for you---and against you!!!!
We used to play with cowl induction in the mid 60's, though quite by accident!!! We were running a '57 Ford with a bad hood latch. Banging second gear would occasionally undo the latch and allow the hood to pop up to where the safety catch would hold it---and for some reason the car ran faster on those passes!!!! I remember Dad saying that it must have something to do with that cold air getting into the carb air horn somehow....We had no idea that the base of the windshield was a low pressure area and it would draw air into the carb, we just knew it made the car faster!!!!
Neat trick with the Saran Wrap on the wing tips! Definitely know what you mean on the extra weight! One night while racing a Super Mod on dirt, we put all the mud we scraped off the car after the heat race into a bucket---dang thing was HEAVY!!!! Some people even asked why we wasted time trying to "clean" the car between the heat and the feature seeing as how it was just going to get dirty again anyway!!!!! Dad told everybody that's why they let me drive the car, I was the lightest!!!
Jerry, thanks for sharing those awesome pics! While I grew up on the right coast, I just about lived to see the magazines for shots like those! Thanks again for the pics and also the memories!
Some awesome pictures, Jerry! I especially like that low angle shot of the Pinto bodied car. Great perspective shot.
I had NOT see or read this before now.I do agree with Dave and the biggest check book idea.But now even the "sportsman" classes are not cheap anymore.If you where to price out on racingjunk a competitive 9.90 or 7.90 car it isn't a cheap form of racing like when the classes where first introduced.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Severson
Dave because of missing this post,I am saying I am sorry.
70chevybb,
Forgive my ignorance here, but did you stay with the iron heads 116 cc or are you in planning still?
I had a friend give me a 454 and it has 113 cc heads. I am going to replace the 402 with the 454. I am going top bore it .030 with .240 dome pistons. I will be taking it to the machine shop next week. I will keep you updated , thanks for asking.
Wes
My Bigblock was a 454
mk IV
+.030, .2something dome ( hyperutechtic )
Stock rods
stock crank
moly rings
.544 // .544 cam
113 or 114 cc closed chamber heads ('68-69 vintage)
long slot rockers
RPM intake
Holley 750 double pumper
By all means not a race motor, but good grief the thump & thunder ( LOL )
torque was a BLAST in my ol' '75 Camaro!!
IDK what the Torque rating was, or the HP, but it was a blast. You will notice the diff in torque!
I for 1 am interested, so if you post-up I'll be following!
......Rob......
well if it needs a crank or fresh turn and you need pistons any ways you could just build a 489 or 496 use a cast steel crank. speed pro makes hpyer pistons or KB s with a stock 6.135 rod i built many .fun engine to build over all cost over a 454 would be less then $450. over the cost of a 454 if your buying new parts and getting it balanced any ways.i have two short blocks going together now
Easy on me guys, remember I am building this for a daily driver. I am still having a hard time on cam selection. I do think I will be ging with flat tappet. I really like the comp cam mahgnum292. I only say that as in the mid 80's I had a chevelle with a 396 and the same cam. It was a daily driver year around and by far the best running bb I ever had.
With the reduced quality of oil available today I would not consider a flat tappet cam, even for a daily driver. You can wipe a lobe too easy, and once it starts wearing it will grind the lobe to nothing in a few thousand miles, and the engine will be eating the abraded cam lobe metal to take out the rings & bearings with it. Sure you can run zinc additives, but why risk it?Quote:
Originally Posted by 70chevybb
times two and the roller cams offer so much better profilesQuote:
Originally Posted by rspears
Use good oil problem solved, valvoline v.r.1 or Schaffers ran v.r.1 in old nova motor never had valvetrain issues or cam problems.
yep and it was a BBC ? NOPE sbc chevys do not have lifter bore angle problems .some lifters were floating around that were junk . i built many sbc with flat lifter cams . but sooner or latter you going to have one bite you in the ass do you feel lucky... if the engine had a good history .not of a cam bore angle to crank .or lifter bore s then you may get away with a flat lifter cam with low spring lbs .big flat lifter cam and bigger valve springs low oil splash at idle that is when things get to be fun. i done many them as well and there are things that can be done to help them live but a roller cam is by far better way to go newer block come with roller cams .so you could just save the money build a retro roller kit for you older bbc or pick up a mark 6 bbc roller engineQuote:
Originally Posted by gassersrule_196
I have noproblem running a roller cam but help me out a little. Here is what I am building. 454 .030 over with .210 dome speed pro pistions which will give 9.7 to 1 compression. I will be using the stock heads with stgainless valves. I would like to run full roller rockers. I will use the edlbrock performer or performer rpm intake and a 750 carb. mallory ignition. It will be infront of a th350 and 3.08 gear to start. At some point I would like to upgrade the trans to a 700r4 and the gear to a 3.73. This will be in a 70 chevy truck with an 8 foot bed. If you have some good choices please let me know.
Thanks, Wes
Do you want to run with a stock rated torque converter or are you thinkig about a higher-than-stock converter?
About how much does the truck weigh?
used many hyd rollers over the years let me know if you want to run a stock stall and if you going to be pulling any thing with the truck if so less stall to no stall over stock and i tell you what i used in the past buildsQuote:
Originally Posted by 70chevybb
I am not pulling anything. I was planning a 1700 to 2100 stall.
Wes
Well, here's a mid-range hydrolic roller cam
Comp Cams # 11-422-8
Duration @ .050
Intake----- 218 Exhaust----- 224
Dur. seat to seat-----
Intake----- 270 Exhaust----- 276
Valve lift with standard rockers-----
Intake----- .510 Exhaust----- .510
Site description---
Hydrolic roller cam, performance application, great mid range torque, likes headers.
_____________________________________________________
Doesn't say anything about torque converters or stall rates.
Very tame cam. For vehicle weight I guessed 3500 lbs.
If you like to check things out, go to the compcams site. They have a program where you enter engine specifics & vehicle weight, & you can flip thru the recommendations. They have full kits down to just cams.
NOT recomending this particular cam, just giving an idea, & a site if you're interested in looking at some offerings.
Hope there was something helpful!!
Why not answer the question Wes asked. The ProComp heads are Chinese imports that are not quality heads. If you are going to spend the money big block heads cost go with the top manufacturers not the bottom of the barrel. With this answer maybe there wouldn't be all this bickering in this thread.Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
The bickering in this thread stopped well over four months ago, so the real question to me is,Quote:
Originally Posted by Cdminter55
I'll stand by what I posted originally, the bare ProComp head provides a viable platform for a qualified engine builder/machinist to use to make a competitive set of heads using his knowledge and talent to bowl port the heads, and add quality valves, springs and retainers to build a set of heads. I would not put a complete, outfitted ProComp head against any other complete head and call them anything near equal. That said, a ProComp head, machined and built out with quality components, will be a viable alternative to other choices, IMO.Quote:
Why is Cdminter55 dredging up old, out of date threads instead of posting up something of interest?
Now, instead of searching through the old threads and commenting on things that are ancient history (this guy decided to rework his current heads about six months back) maybe start a new thread?? What're you working on?:confused:;)
I finally picked up my .060 over 454 from the machine shop. Thet told me my crank needed to be turned. They had a .040on the main and .020 on the rod freshly turned forged crank for 150 bucks. I fugured that would be better than a cast crank kit for 339. I still havent made a decision on the heads but will most likley go with the stock cast iorn heads. Should I upgrade to 2.19 and 1.88 valves and do bronze guides? I do know I already need 1 exhaust seat put in so I think I should do all of them. I need a set of rods so I can get it balanced, should I just recondition the old rods or get a set of the eagle I beam rods?
for the money you will tie up in this build you could of went 496 .hyper piston speed pro used many sets .cast steel crank . chevy rods rebuilt with Arp bolts or scat forged 6.135 rods . on heads ..if seen many valve jobs or alot of miles. more i go up to the 2.190. to help clean up heads . i would do all the ex seats if going big valve 1.880 make sure they only use a 1.937 O.D seat or you can cut threw the headQuote:
Originally Posted by 70chevybb