Thread: Need My Head(s) Examined

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OK, that is pretty much what I wanted to say. Go back and read the whole mess please.

To get the timing close, you will put #1 on about 10 to 12 degrees before TDC on the compression stroke (both valves closed). This should be easy to do with your timing tape installed on the damper ring. Now, take the cap off the distributor and make certain that the rotor is pointing to the terminal which feeds #1 plug wire. If it isn't, then either change the wires around to make it happen or remove the distributor and turn the distributor drive shaft with a long, large screwdriver until you can turn the rotor shaft in the distributor to make the rotor align with the #1 wire.

As far as oil, use the best racing oil you can find and add a bottle of Engine Oil Supplement, found at any GM parts department counter. It contains additional extreme pressure lubricants to protect the cam/lifter interface. Fire the motor and bring the r's up to no less than 2,500 for 20 minutes. The cam is fed lube by the splash method and as there is very little splash at lower rpm's, the r's must be up to lube it and the lifter faces. After the break-in, drop the oil and filter. Replace with fresh filter and oil and another bottle of EOS. Do some on the road driving, alternating between moderate power and letting the motor de-accelerate in gear, giving it a chance to oil up real well and carry away some heat from the rings and cylinder walls for the next 500 or so miles.

Well, hey, you've torched my brain, but if there is anything else, just ask. If I don't know, someone else on the board will know. We've got a lot of sharp people on here.

One last thing, I recommended the pieces of wire to check installed height. This was assuming that you don't have a set of snap gauges. If you have snap gauges, use 'em. This is the same set that I have in my toolbox.....http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/cen6554.html