Which clutch do I need? Chevy engine, Ford Trans

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NTFDAY

Seems to me that you have it under control, good luck

---

So it is ok to back up the hole I need to drill/ tap with a nut and call it good?

The other 3 bolts and the bearing adapter I've got, it's just that one bolt because the hole only be ~1/8" or so deep in that area. I've got the other bell out, and getting ready to see how far off it is but just by looking quick, it will leave a bit under 1/2 of the trans face uncovered which is ok I guess

If it was mine I'd probably drill the hole a bit oversize and run a grade 8 bolt and nut with a large washer on the back side of the bellhousing.

If it were mine I'd put the tranny on CraigsList, sell it for what I could get and then buy a GM tranny to go behind the GM block. You're setting yourself up for spending bucks for a cobbled up mess, seems to me.

I've actually thought about getting a Saginaw 3spd but none are local closest is 2hrs away ( one way ), shipping would eat up any savings and running for the closest would burn that much in gas.
Problem with the T-18 I've got is it is a long tail version that nobody wants ( slip yoke version ), and probably why I got a 90k mile grade A transmission for $175.. A Chevy Muncie SM-465 is common as dirt around here except the 2wd variations and I think they all use bolt on yokes anyway.. If I can make this work I'd rather do that. As long as it's just the extra $54 for the bearing retainer, $12 pilot bearing which it seems to be. Should not have a problem at the local parts store getting the mix and matched clutch

I pulled the trans out of storage made the measurements and transferred them to the trans and then held up the bellhousing. Confirms pretty much what Novak says for the 3 bolts. 1 ear can be drilled to match the chevy bell, the top 2 can be egged out. The one in question will drill in a clean section of the bellhousing, just to the outside of the extra 'boss' on the other side of the big hole from the clutch pivot pin. There is some webbing there which may need to be ground a bit for a washer/ nut to clear.

This bell that Novak has a pic of looks exactly like mine http://www.novak-adapt.com/images/pi...chevy_bell.jpg

I'm thinking the drilling oversize allows some wiggle room, so it can be lined up, centered and then snugged down?


Oh, and out of curosity. I notice with this bell that the side with the casting number looks like a punch out with the right dimensions for a clutch fork opening, and it has an extra 'boss' on the other side for what looks like a pivot pin. Were these cast for LHD and RHD applications?

"Wiggle room" is going to do nothing besides eat up input shaft bearings, pilot bearings, and the input shaft itself....

Good point! and on the ford bell... 2 of those holes were for dowels! This is a job for a machine shop. Not saying it cannot be done! Just gotta do it right!

This trans has no dowel holes. The 4 drilled holes on the Ford bell match the 4 drilled/tapped holes on the transmission..

I was thinking of having a machinst do the modifications. Novak says they recommend it anyway.. I actually know a machinist a town away. Used to work with him. He's set up in his garage as a side line and can probably do this cheap. Now I just have to find his number. Darn whitepages, now I know his last 4 known addresses now but still no phone number.. Guess I have to dust off the paper copy phone book.

Typically Ford uses 6 bolts and 2 dowels on their bell housings. The 2 lower bolts will have dowels close by. YES, consult your machinest friend!

I'd like to know how your going to hold the bolt or nut inside the bell housing? your bell. has no bottom cover to remove?? You really should do your self a favor and get a GM 3 or 4 speed

Ok, it is a Chevy bellhousing! What is the diameter of the input shaft bearing retainer vs the opening on the bellhousing? A tight fit here is a good thing, too.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by cffisher

I'd like to know how your going to hold the bolt or nut inside the bell housing? your bell. has no bottom cover to remove?? You really should do your self a favor and get a GM 3 or 4 speed

---

It's just a basic Chevy 3/4spd car bell. It has the smaller diamater center opening. No removable cover.. I was wondering on how I would mount hold the bolt/ nut inside if it was drilled oversize. I think drilling and tapping, then install a stud backed by the nut on the back side of the bell with red locktite and it should hold without spinning/ loosening.

Are the Ford tranny bolts larger diameter then the Chevy bellhousing? If the bolt holes align, then the center hole is the only issue?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

The bellhousing has to be accurately aligned with the block, not just some hogged out holes!!!!! When installing a new bellhousing, it is suggested by McCleod, Lakewood, and a few other companies to buy the alignment fixture for centering the transmission input shaft DIRECTLY in line with the centerline of the crankshaft! There is no room for error here. If the hogged out bolt holes aren't bad enough, what do you intend to do about getting the alignment dowels on the block to fit precisely in the bellhousing? These dowels are not made to make installing the bellhousing easier, they are made to accurately align everything!!!! This alignment on mis-matched parts should only be done with an alignment fixture, not by the "feels good" method. Mis-alignment will be hard on the tranny gears and bearings, clutch, and can even "push" the crankshaft around and cause wear on the thrust bearing!

I have an alignment fixture for Ford's, it is setup to accurately measure the depth of the pinion shaft into the crankshaft, and (again) to center the tranny input shaft with the centerline of the crankshaft. Even components made for each other can be a long ways off, I don't see where hogged out holes is ever going to be accurate enough!

---

Oh, I've got the Chevy bellhousing. Not trying to drill the Ford bell to meet the Chevy block, but allignment is a good point. I know it's a one shot type deal or things will get ugly

The top bolts are less than 1/8" of fitting ( chevy bell to Ford trans )
If I buy the Chevy sized bearing retainer which according to Novak makes a slip fit as it should on the trans, then it should be centered. I could then have the upper holes fitted exact/ square by a machinist, and then the lower holes drilled... I do only want to do this once, and tearing out a crankshaft would defeat the purpose of putting the cheaper Chevy engine in the chassis.The only reason I decided to not use the 460 is the bearings are down to copper. I could put bearings in the crank ( still good ), prime up the oil and it would be good to go, but the Chevy is lighter and has more Hp ( stock ) than the severely timing retarded 460.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Are the Ford tranny bolts larger diameter then the Chevy bellhousing? If the bolt holes align, then the center hole is the only issue?

---

The center hole on a Chevy car bell housing is smaller than the Ford. 4 11/16" IIRC, so Novak provides a bearing retainer that is turned to fit in the Chevy bellhousing. The bolt holes are the same size between the Chevy/ Ford bell. Top 2 are a bit under 1/8" from fitting, and bottom 2 are way off but there is 2 undrilled 'ears' on the T-18. One when drilled will fit a stock Chevy bolt hole, the other puts it in more or less in the side- center of the bellhousing if drilled.

OK, gotcha now Matt!!!! Heck, just bring it over tomorrow after work and I'll weld the holes shut on the aluminum bellhousing, then drill and tap them to fit the Ford Trans!!!!!:LOL::LOL::LOL:

If you have even a half ways decent machinist around, he should be able to whoop that job out easily! Once you have the correct sized bearing retainer it's a cake walk, though I would (if it were mine) set up the alignment fixture so that I were absolutely certain the trans input shaft and crankshaft were in alignment!~!!!!!