Thread: T56 questions

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I thought the T56 was a performance trans that stock was ready for use.I have to admit I haven't been paying much attention to the T56's so I have alot to learn.

This a copy of a Ebay add of a company that does work on T56's and it seems they need alot of work to get them to work correctly.I am looking for input from you guys.So here is the copy from the ad.

Here is what we do:

Transmissions are completely disassembled, de-greased, all parts carefully inspected. Rebuilt using performance upgraded parts, with severe use in mind!


Performance parts list:

Upgraded 1-6 carbon fiber/kevlar blocker / synchronizer rings
Reverse synchronizer ring
Bronze fork pads for the 1-2 & 3-4
Billet keys for the 3-4 with upgraded springs
Billet keys for the 1-2 with upgraded springs
Bronze shifter bushing / isolator cup
Snap ring kit
3-4 steel shift fork
Stock 5-6 & reverse fork pads
Stock 5-6 & reverse keys & springs
front & rear seals


·Carbon fiber/kevlar blocker / synchronizer rings
Carbon fiber/kevlar blocker / synchronizer rings provide much better shifting than stock paper lined parts.
·Bronze fork pads 1-2 and 3-4
Bronze fork pads are a necessary upgrade for all T56 high performance and racing applications! These will not fail or wear like the stock Teflon pads.
·Billet Synchronizer Keys 1-2 and 3-4
Billet keys are a necessary upgrade for high performance and race applications. Replace the weak stamped steel keys with a superior billet material.
·Steel 3-4 shift fork.
This is the upgraded T56 3-4 steel shift fork used in the Vipers and will fits all T56 transmissions. It replaces the weaker aluminum shift fork with a much stronger steel fork.

Oh.Sorry.I forgot to say thank you in advance,

Gary

Gary the problem is not all T56s are created equal, and it really depends on the original application and year.

Here is a pretty good article that breaks it down.

Borg-Warner T-56 transmission - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

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Mike it seems the ideal yrs to buy are from 1999 to 2002 F-body for 450 lbs of torque and the .50 overdrive.Not sure about durability for the best yrs.

This is a post from another site.

Do you have a Gen I or Gen III/IV engine?

If Gen I, you can use a stock LT1 T56, flywheel, and hydraulics with no issue as long as you have a 1 pc RMS engine. The 2 pc RMS engines require a $400ish conversion flywheel. The 93 T56's had slightly shorter gears all around and were rated for less torque. Generally the concensus is to avoid them.

If Gen III/IV, the LS1 F-body T56 is the ticket. All 94-02 F-body T56's had the same gear ratios as far as I am aware.

You can convert a 98-02 F-body T56 to work with a Gen I engine but it requires an adapter plate at least, maybe other issues too. A 94-97 T56 costs around $600-$1000 for parts to convert it for use with a Gen III/IV engine down the road. That may affect your decision.

The LT1 T56 uses a strange clutch with a reverse-pointed slave cylinder. They're fairly unique and there arent many clutch options out there. There are enough, but aside from maybe the high end Mcleods, they all use the exact same Valeo pressure plates. They increase grip by changing the clutch disc material, not by increasing clamping force. Normally this isnt a big deal, but its a transmission they only made for 5 years, you're just not gonna have a TON of options on it. But there is enough available that it isnt a huge concern. the clutches do cost a little more though it seems. $250 is about the starting point.

The LS1 T56's seemed to have crappy hydraulics from the factory. I think i read that GM didnt allow full pressure to the slave cylinder, so you never got complete clutch disengagement... something weird like that? Hence things like the "drill mod". LS1 T56's seem to go through synchros a lot faster, but that could be because of crappy hydraulics or because LS1's make oodles and caboodles of power. Nothing a fancy aftermarket $300 Tick master cylinder cant fix. The LT1 T56's despite being older and more worn out seem to last just as long, but they are getting very old now.

CTS-V and GTO T56's can work, but they require a lot of conversions to get them into other vehicles. The F-body ones are a direct drop in. If this is for a non F-body, then it may not matter so much. Corvette T56's are integrated into the rear axle and IRS, so they pretty much only work in corvettes.

I have a T56 from a 94 TA that was bracket raced and power shifted hard. I learned how to drive a stick with it in my car, and the thing makes noises, but it's held up great over the years Ive had it. They're very tough transmissions, and I think everything from 94+ had at least a 450 ft lb rating.

My son has a T56 behind an LT1 in a '95 Camaro. He's had it apart changing sycros & forks. Bought a Hurst shifter, cut it down on the lathe to get a shorter (quicker) shift pattern & it's still a pig on the track. It works great on the street, but try to shift it fast on the track & it just refuses.
We dropped my Rossler 210 in it this summer (no runs on it yet) to see how much of a difference it will make. A bunch I'm guessing.