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Thread: Aftermarket dipsticks
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    IC2
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    Aftermarket dipsticks

     



    After two fancy Lokar transmission dipsticks, the first with the single 'O' ring as the seal, the second, replaced under warranty is their modified version with two, and I still have a drool of ATF. Of course, since the car is only marking its spot, I probably shouldn't worry about it, but those oily spots in the drive as well as the puddle in the garage are getting to be a PITA. And yes, I have tried different kinds of silicone sealant - and none works as I can't really get that area totally clean and dry while in the car. If the tranny was out and on my work bench, I could probably come up with something, but not as installed.

    I went through the Summit catalog and there are probably a dozen different versions for a C4 by ATI, Hughes, Moroso and Miloden as well as Lokar just to name a few manufacturers. Most of these have something that looks similar to a PCV valve cover seal and others have a locking handle as well - which looks like a good addition. Now, my question, have any of you folks ever used any of these other versions besides Lokar? Did they leak? Can one of them be bent if needed to fit my well recessed engine?
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  2. #2
    IC2
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    Oh well - I know Ford components - and not a BB (belly button) part so I just ordered a Hughes from Summit and will mod if necessary. Thanks for lookin' anyhow
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  3. #3
    roadster32's Avatar
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    Dave i've not had problems with the real lokar sticks but there are a lot of copys of Lokars out there and they never seem to seal correctly. I have got them to seal by installing slightly thicker O rings, HTH
    Its aweful lonesome in the saddle since my horse died.

  4. #4
    IC2
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadster32 View Post
    Dave i've not had problems with the real lokar sticks but there are a lot of copys of Lokars out there and they never seem to seal correctly. I have got them to seal by installing slightly thicker O rings, HTH
    Steve - when Lokar sent me the second, I was able to put a little bit larger O-rings on but the grooves need to be opened some for even larger and right now, all my tools aren't handy. The hole in the case almost seems like it was enlarged a little.
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  5. #5
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    I know a lot of people use silicone on them Dave but i've found it makes the situation worse, i fit them with a smear of grease, but the cheap copys won't seem to seal with anything. Annoying having oil leaks isn't it
    Its aweful lonesome in the saddle since my horse died.

  6. #6
    IC2
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadster32 View Post
    I know a lot of people use silicone on them Dave but i've found it makes the situation worse, i fit them with a smear of grease, but the cheap copys won't seem to seal with anything. Annoying having oil leaks isn't it
    Steve - I wouldn't have any complaint if it was a cheap knock off. It is an $100+/- Lokar firewall mount and installed per their instructions with just a little bit of silicone - their verbal instructions. This is the only component on the car that has leaked - ever. I wont even tell you how many pan gaskets it took - that real narrow cut out place on the pan rail just wouldn't seal so I ended up with a new pan, flanged bolts instead of my ARP $tuds plus a very thick cork gasket instead of my favorite neoprene composition Fel-Pro's. Now, that first pan - a TCI, was not even flat at that cut out. I ended up with a Spectre Performance 5455 from Summit - and it is a nice part.
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  7. #7
    IC2
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    Update

    I ordered a Hughes locking dipstick which arrived this afternoon. Of course, with the engine set back, needed some modifications. First of all, the mounting tab they had welded on it - no idea where that was supposed to bolt as it wouldn't have fit anything back there. Also, the actual dip stick itself - about an 1.25 too short as only about a half inch projected from the end which would have done a good job measuring the case. I ended up cutting about 1.75 off the tube and with eyeball measurement will be off of the pan bottom by a little less then a half inch. I didn't have to cut the stick itself, just the tube. I then made up a new tab and tacked it to the tube, painted it and will install either later today or in the morning. It will be a bit tough to fill the trans as it's w-a-a-a-y back there. Hopefully no more leaks, but.............

    Now, the Lokar. The original o-rings were #015, 1/16x9/16x11/16. I had originally replaced them with #113, 3/32x9/16x3/4. I could and will eventually try the #207 which are 1/8x9/16x13/16 as the groove is big enough. This should stop the sloppiness and leak. That's for another day though.

    Dang I love these cars and the aftermarket parts we use. If I had to start with the tranny out of the car, I would convert to pan fill instead and plug that case fill hole. It would then be made up of threaded fittings instead of the press to fit - then pray it doesn't leak cause you can't successfully use any sealer there.
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  8. #8
    Matt167's Avatar
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    what about a little grease on the O rings? or even vasaline. But, I have no experience with aftermkt O- ring'd dipsticks. That's just a thought.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

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  9. #9
    IC2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt167 View Post
    what about a little grease on the O rings? or even vasaline. But, I have no experience with aftermkt O- ring'd dipsticks. That's just a thought.
    Matt - the OEM O-rings were too small in cross section(1/16), the next(3/32), evidently still too small so now, if I ever reinstall the Lokar, I'll try a 3rd size(1/8) cross section. Any grease - maybe for assembly if needed, but ATF would dissolve it and then - leak.

    Now, with saying that, gotta go put it together, fill it and see if it drools from some where else
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  10. #10
    IC2
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    It has been a month since I installed the new dipstick along with the 4 quarts of (re)filtered ATF which means the level is well above the transmission dipstick hole. The floor/drip pan are still dry. I haven't driven the car yet (back yard/front of shop snow just disappeared this week) but that to me is a good sign. A very minor, 1-2 drips in 4 months, from the front timing cover is the only thing left marking this cars spot.

    Now, coffee break is over and back to the body realignment project
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  11. #11
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    Sounds like you nailed it at last Dave, good news mate
    Its aweful lonesome in the saddle since my horse died.

  12. #12
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    Dip sticks are a pain in the butt, I've actully cut a washer looking gasget out of a thin wall inner tube before and used that with a slightly worn dip stick tube.
    It sealed up good and never leaked.
    It got a problem right now with the after market dip stick that came with my Canton 8 qt. oil pan. Instead of putting a threaded nut at a angle so the stick can go down in to the oil they put the threaded nut straite out of the side so the dip stick goes straite in side ways. Stupid Design!!! I tried to used the factory dip stick on the front of the motor but that hits the windage tray screen and won't go thru. So I now have to take the pan off and drill the screen so the engine wiil except the stock dip stick.
    I spent about $700 bucks on the set up and they can't make a dip stick that works with thier pan. Kurt

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by vara4 View Post
    It got a problem right now with the after market dip stick that came with my Canton 8 qt. oil pan. Instead of putting a threaded nut at a angle so the stick can go down in to the oil they put the threaded nut straite out of the side so the dip stick goes straite in side ways. Stupid Design!!! I tried to used the factory dip stick on the front of the motor but that hits the windage tray screen and won't go thru. So I now have to take the pan off and drill the screen so the engine wiil except the stock dip stick.
    I spent about $700 bucks on the set up and they can't make a dip stick that works with thier pan. Kurt
    Are you sure that threaded boss on the side is not there for a turbo oil return line? My SBF pan has an "extra" boss in the side, too, but the builder says that it is put there because so many of the aftermarket applications run turbo's, and it's easier to put in a plug on the side than to have two designs. You might ask Canton about theirs?
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

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