Thread: Hydraulic Clutch Linkage Problem

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you might try assy.the ubit on the car then break the lines.don't remove them any try to get the air out thay way.

The lines can't be cracked open. They are o-ring connections held in place with roll pins.
Nothing about this deal seems to be easy. Yesterday we set the assembly up on the bench with the slave cylinder low and the reservoir tied off high. Every hour or so I would compress the slave cylinder against the bench & lean on it while pumping it back out with the master cylinder. Repeat a few times & them let it set awhile, while I went back to work on my own car. I got a few bubbles every time I went through this routine. Jeff took over when he got off work. He said the last couple time he didn't see any bubbles, so he's going to reinstall it today & try again.

Do you think the lack of bleeder is because they are aftermarket parts? I can't imagine any setup not being made to service like that. I went on some Camaro sites and looked up bleeding slaves for you and they discuss it just the way we have always done it, through a bleeder valve.

Don

If the cylinders are metal they have bleeders, if they are plastic (like ours) they don't . If you buy a stock GM unit (we didn't) they come pre-bled and ready to install. (Jeff didn't know that until after he bought this set-up). I've been told it will self bleed once in the vehicle because the master is mounted on the firewall right above the slave, but it is a very very slow process. That's why it's hard to get it going. Once it starts working (somewhat like priming a pump) it will work fine. They say you can do a maintenance bleed by simply pumping the master cylinder a few times using short strokes & then a full stroke. That forces the air out of the master cylinder & up the reservoir tube.
The problem is this bleeding process only removes a few little bubbles at a time, which is why the first time bleed is such a pain.

This is what it looks like...