Thread: Muncie 4 speed is hard to shift

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Here is a question for the stick shift fans out there. Why is my Muncie 4 speed overly stiff to shift ? I think that the 4 to 3 shift is the worst but it's quite stiff in all forward gears (not reverse) I purchased it as a used unit it came with an old shifter that is very sloppy. I did take the side cover off to check for broken bits before fitting to the car. I couldn't get a new gasket so I made my own from gasket paper. The paper that I used was a little thicker that the original gasket would that make a difference ?
Cheers Manky

The first question that comes to mind is what did you put in it for lubrication? Secondly, is it a cold weather problem, and does the stiffness stay with it even after you've driven enough to warm things up?

All of my toys in the '60s and '70s were GM fourspeeds. Two things come to mind....

Is the clutch releasing all the way? If it's dragging a little, they will act that way. You might try adjusting the clutch linkage push the throwout bearing a little farther in, to make sure.

There are some brass rings that slow or speed up the gears so they will get to the same speed before they mesh. If the synchro rings are worn, it will do that.

If the linkage is sloppy and the shifter worn excessively could just be that....

Originally Posted by rspears

The first question that comes to mind is what did you put in it for lubrication? Secondly, is it a cold weather problem, and does the stiffness stay with it even after you've driven enough to warm things up?

I think it's 80W/90 gear oil. What oil should be in a Muncie ? It's not cold here in Australia average days around 90 degrees. And even after driving 30 to 40 miles it's still the same.

Originally Posted by HOTRODPAINT

All of my toys in the '60s and '70s were GM fourspeeds. Two things come to mind....

Is the clutch releasing all the way? If it's dragging a little, they will act that way. You might try adjusting the clutch linkage push the throwout bearing a little farther in, to make sure.

There are some brass rings that slow or speed up the gears so they will get to the same speed before they mesh. If the synchro rings are worn, it will do that.

It is a full hydraulic set up with a Howe hydraulic throwout bearing and Wilwood master cylinder. I am unable to measure how much clearance the clutch has because of the bell housing. But you can freely turn the drive shaft while depressing the clutch . To me it is a bit stiff when pulling it out of gear. Not just going into gear.

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

If the linkage is sloppy and the shifter worn excessively could just be that....

I am getting a new shifter. But not till May this year. The cook and I are coming to America then. I was looking at the Summit racing brand shifters. They seem to be good value for money. Unless I find a new one at a swap meet before I get to Summit.

i was just reading about this on another site make sure the 80/90 your using is GL-4 AND NOT GL-5 gl-5 is corrosive to the syncros

Originally Posted by manky

"The cook and I???"

Hope the little woman isn't reading this or you may be living on beans and wieners for a while.

Originally Posted by RestoRod

Hope the little woman isn't reading this or you may be living on beans and wieners for a while.

I do half of the cooking. And she knows that I love her. Some times you've got to try to get a reaction. Try this one at home next time they mention Tiger Woods on the news say ( That poor guy just leave him alone )

Originally Posted by gassersrule_196

i was just reading about this on another site make sure the 80/90 your using is GL-4 AND NOT GL-5 gl-5 is corrosive to the syncros

On the back of the oil container it says it meets or exceeds these
SAE 80W/90
API GL-5,MT-1
US MIL-PRF-2105F
Mack GO-H
So I'll go to the store tomorrow and look for some GL-4. And give that a go.
Are there any additives that would be recommended for a Muncie.

heres the site from which i found the info,

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=132531

If it is dragging coming out of gear, it is most likely the clutch not disengaging completely; there must be some way to check it for proper clearance. Synchros would mess with the re-engagement of the gear but not dis-engagement, unless the synchro teeth are messed up; if it is just the brasses, they will not go in without a double clutching, or grinding. 80-90W should be right; I don't know about the corrosive thing, though.

Originally Posted by Rrumbler

If it is dragging coming out of gear, it is most likely the clutch not disengaging completely; there must be some way to check it for proper clearance. Synchros would mess with the re-engagement of the gear but not dis-engagement, unless the synchro teeth are messed up; if it is just the brasses, they will not go in without a double clutching, or grinding. 80-90W should be right; I don't know about the corrosive thing, though.

The problem with checking the clutch clearance is the bell housing is a Lakewood racing unit and it dose not have any inspection ports. I could use a 1 inch hole saw and put a rubber bung it after. How much clearance should there be ?

Originally Posted by Evolvo

Hey Manky,
Its been along time since I opened a Muncie but......since you bought it "used" you probably don't know what kind of abuse it has sustained. Since you seem pretty confident that the clutch is disengaging it may be time to start looking further into the tranny. Pull the side cover back off and see if the shift forks are bent, or the bushings in the cover loose. Who knows, the main shaft could be bent or other internal damage could be causing these issues. Might be time for a teardown.
Good Luck

That's not what I need to hear.