If the engine responds quickly to throttle when coming off-idle, you may want to try 'flashing' the converter.

That'll give you a harder hit (locks at a higher rpm) than it would if you did the power-brake bit.

Higher stall converters are like a stick shift/clutch setup to an extent.
Similar to spinning the engine up then dumping the clutch.

There are compromises though.
Get a converter with too high a stall rpm and it won't lock up when cruising the highways and will generate heat - to an excess if a too-high stall is chosen.

Bigger - read more torque - engines will stall a converter at a higher rpm than will a smaller engine that develops less torque.

Running in overdrive with the 700 trans will probably result in a 2400 rpm stall converter slipping at highway speeds . . . at least it will be that way until you exceed the speed limit.

MPH = tire diameter x RPM divided by axle ratio x 336

Running in overdrive will drop the rpm about 30% so it's doubtful you'd have full lockup at normal highway speeds.

The car will move at idle rpm levels with a 2200 rpm converter - like when you're maneuvering in a parking lot - and sometimes you have to ease a little throttle in to get where you want to go.
This depends to an extent on rear axle ratio as well as trans low gear ratio as well as how heavy the car is, but as a general rule, idle rpms will move the car on level pavement quite well.