couple transmission questions

[smalltowncowboy]

im still in the planning and gathering stages of my build but i have a couple questions to see what you guys think, if you dont mind.

the car- 1950 chevy coupe, gonna be a gasser, thinking 427 possible blower.

1) if i run a 427 with a blower what tranny will hold up to this?

2) ive heard of saginaw trannys and muncie trannys, then i seen a thing where they were the same company???

3) on the muncie's ive seen long input shaft, short shaft, fine cut teeth, course cut teeth??? how do i know which one i will need?

thank you for any input

[southerner]

1) if i run a 427 with a blower what tranny will hold up to this?

2) ive heard of saginaw trannys and muncie trannys, then i seen a thing where they were the same company???

3) on the muncie's ive seen long input shaft, short shaft, fine cut teeth, course cut teeth??? how do i know which one i will need?

thank you for any input[/QUOTE]

1 Thought of running automatics ? The best Auto box was the TH400. You can run a manual but you are going to need a strong clutch, and also if you miss a shift and floor it, well blower motors are very responsive. So you you could over rev and pop it.

2 Muncies were made in Gm's Muncie plant in Indiana. They put out M20 M21 and M22, go for the chevy Muncies M20 and M21 had ancled teeth, The M22 had shallower teeth and was stronger. Saginaws are weak, put that behind a big block especially a blown one, and it wont be there for long. The saginaws were not made at the same company to my knowledge.

3 They dont make muncies anymore, plenty of used ones out there. But if you go For a Muncie I would look at Autogears kits. Fine spline 26 spline input shaft, 32 spline output shaft M22 gearset and the large tailshaft housing. Allso they make a strong iron bearing support plate. All this good gear costs, but if you want a bullitproof gearbox for a chevy they are the way to go. Oh and you will run a safety bellhousing wont you ?

[R Pope]

A Warner T10 will handle your 427. M22 Muncie is a good choice, too. Or a Turbo 400 auto, if you want an automatic. They're easier to find, and get beef-up kits for. The point about over-revving with a stick is a thing to consider. With a blower, there's gobs of bottom end, no real need for a high stall converter, so driveability doesn't suffer, and heat isn't such a problem. Of course, if it's a strip-only car, that doesn't mean much.

[smalltowncowboy]

yah ive talked to a couple guys i know who build hot rods, and they turned me onto a th400 with cadilac gears and clutches, with a stage 3 shift kit in the valve body.

[southerner]

A good strong dependable combination

[Dave Severson]

The well built new 5 and 6 speed rail shifters are rated for 500 to 600 ft lbs torque, some higher if you want to spend the $$$$. Automatics are the easy way out, but you don't have to limit yourself to 3 forward gears and an overdrive....along with all the inherent heat problems that hi stall converters add to the other cooling issues associated with blown engines..... Whatever tranny you get, manual or automatic, make sure it's torque handling capability is equal to the output of the engine. A cheaper tranny may save you money initially but after a couple rebuilds the savings are way deep on the negative side.