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since the bell must be installed in order to depress clutch fork all the way and disengage pressure plate, how on earth am I supposed to get anything in there to check that I have .030 clearance between clutch and plate?
It seems to me that the starter opening is the only place where you'd even have a chance, but you still couldn't see anything.
You don't check it. When you put it all together and try to put the car into gear and it just grinds, then the pressure plate is dragging on the clutch, if not, then you're ok.
all you can do is adj. your clutch free travel at the paddle and if it wont disengage then, you well need to replace the clutch and p-plate any way. the preload in the p-plate is set at the factory and you cant change it. :cool:Quote:
Originally posted by tcodi
since the bell must be installed in order to depress clutch fork all the way and disengage pressure plate, how on earth am I supposed to get anything in there to check that I have .030 clearance between clutch and plate?
It seems to me that the starter opening is the only place where you'd even have a chance, but you still couldn't see anything.
I hope that sucker disengages.
thanks
One other thing, my clutch pedal connection point (through the floor pedal) is about 1" to the left and 2" below the fork dimple. I can use a little bushing to center it up left to right, but not up and down. Will it have a real bad effect if the linkage pulls the fork back and a little downward too?
:confused: is your clutch pedal rod hooked to the clutch folk? why wont it line up?Quote:
Originally posted by tcodi
I hope that sucker disengages.
thanks
One other thing, my clutch pedal connection point (through the floor pedal) is about 1" to the left and 2" below the fork dimple. I can use a little bushing to center it up left to right, but not up and down. Will it have a real bad effect if the linkage pulls the fork back and a little downward too?
here is a sketch of what I mean
Quote:
Originally posted by tcodi
here is a sketch of what I mean
im not sure thats gonna work looks like to me its pulling on the cluth fork not pushing which one is it doing
well it's not setup yet, but this is how it will be, I think.
It will be pulling if it's like this, does it make a difference if it's pulling or pushing?
I can't see why it would.
It's just that it is not perfectly straight back, so there will be a little force vectoring to deal with. Some will be pulling down while most will be pulling straight back.
i guess it will pull as good as push but thats not you problem if it is as much angle as it looks like is not gonna stay on the pivot ball. there is a lot of pressure there. why not run the rod up on the pedal above the pivot and let it push, then it looks like it would work,Quote:
Originally posted by tcodi
well it's not setup yet, but this is how it will be, I think.
It will be pulling if it's like this, does it make a difference if it's pulling or pushing?
I can't see why it would.
It's just that it is not perfectly straight back, so there will be a little force vectoring to deal with. Some will be pulling down while most will be pulling straight back.
If I put it above the pivot on the pedal, then it would push, but how would I reverse that motion at the fork so that the fork moved in the right direction?
sorry about that, so back to square one. i really think it to much angle, have you thought about hyd. clutch?Quote:
Originally posted by tcodi
If I put it above the pivot on the pedal, then it would push, but how would I reverse that motion at the fork so that the fork moved in the right direction?
the overhead view that shows the side to side misalignment can be fixed with a simple bushing on the side of my pedal connection to move the link over. But the up and down isn't so easy. I can't just move it up or it won't pull on the fork like I need, it will push.
if its a chev. block why cant you you use the ball on the side of the block, you can push on that at a angle but not thr clutch ball?Quote:
Originally posted by tcodi
the overhead view that shows the side to side misalignment can be fixed with a simple bushing on the side of my pedal connection to move the link over. But the up and down isn't so easy. I can't just move it up or it won't pull on the fork like I need, it will push.
I'm real confused now. I'm not sure what the picture was showing exactly.
Ball on engine block? I'm not sure about that either.
denny he need a better pic. buddy ok i know that its suppose to like is just the way all chev factory clutch linkage works. let him draw you something dif or if you had a stright shift pick up you could look at would work to. but all that angle is not gonna work you need to do someyhing dif. :cool:Quote:
Originally posted by tcodi
I'm real confused now. I'm not sure what the picture was showing exactly.
Ball on engine block? I'm not sure about that either.
is it that "z bar" thing you guys are talking about?
There is a ball on the outside of my bell, just above the fork, but it is busted off. Is that what you meant.
yes and thats the way you need to be going.Quote:
Originally posted by tcodi
is it that "z bar" thing you guys are talking about?
There is a ball on the outside of my bell, just above the fork, but it is busted off. Is that what you meant.
thats what you need and then you could do most anything you wanted to.Quote:
Originally posted by DennyW
A little more. I'm also trying to find you a picture to see it all. hahaha
Quote:
Originally posted by DennyW
A little more. I'm also trying to find you a picture to see it all. hahaha
do you have a boss for that ballstud in your bellhousing tcodi ?
it's about half there, and half broken off
is it in your block or bellhousing or can put it in eitherQuote:
Originally posted by tcodi
it's about half there, and half broken off
well, mine has the big oil filter opening in the back there, but there is also a threaded hole right at the back on the side, so I guess that's it.
about the same place as the pic. then thats where the ball goes and to do this right you need to use the z bar . if not you gonna have a problem.Quote:
Originally posted by DennyW
Well, don't know about the aluminum mounting. I wouldn't want to have my truck clutch pivot mounted there. All the gm's and fords I worked on had the ball in the block. Maybe the newer ones don't need that. Got me.
Heres a picture of a gm block showing the ball location. Someone had stuck a bolt on there because they got tocheap to buy a 17.00 ball. :)
yep
other view
to do it right tcodi thats the way it need to be done, then you want have to worry about it any more. you can try it the other way but its cant stay on the ball like that i work at the school bus shop 5 yrs saw a lot of clutches go bad.
I'll do it that way
thanks guys
you'll be glade you did.:cool:Quote:
Originally posted by tcodi
I'll do it that way
thanks guys
where the heck can you get those ball studs or z bar parts.
AutoZone, Advance Auto and NAPA don't stock that stuff.
I was planning on making my own z bar with some tubing and such. It's just the ball stud I wanted to buy. I guess I could just make one with a threaded ball and piece of all thread.
now you got something to work with tcodi.Quote:
Originally posted by DennyW
4
Do you see what I mean? You can use the offset brackets, and mount where you want to. But, you have to use the bushings. I'm taking this extra time to show you. If you don't know, you just don't know. Some think everyone should know things. But, it don't work like that. I sure don't know everything, but, I will find out. hahaha
:cool:
now I understand how that setup is supposed to work
thanks for all the help
time to track down some parts.