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Thread: How far will front driveshaft yoke slide into turbo 350 tailstock?
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    brianrupnow's Avatar
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    How far will front driveshaft yoke slide into turbo 350 tailstock?

     



    One of those unwritten rules that I have kind of "always known" is that when building a driveshaft, have full weight on vehicle suspension, slide front yoke into tailstock untill 1'' between rear of tailstock and shoulder on yoke, and make that the basis for driveshaft measuring. I did that on my current roadster pickup project, (even made driveshaft 1/8" less than I measured). Tonight when I went to reassemble things, the yoke didn't want to slide in past that 1". It's a good thing that I actually went 1/8" less, or I wouldn't have got the driveshaft to go in.-----Now I'm curious---did somebody change the rules while I wasn't looking, or is it possible that since its an old transmission, the splines have worn to a "set" because it went a zillion miles with that same universal at that particular amount of insertion.---On a new turbo 350 will that front yoke slide in untill the shoulder hits the tailstock, or am I smokin something?
    Old guy hot rodder

  2. #2
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
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    Post removed. Tech and Denny have a simpler solution.
    Last edited by Henry Rifle; 02-08-2005 at 05:44 PM.
    Jack

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  3. #3
    DennyW is offline Junior Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Right on Henry.

    Load vehicle with total operational race weight. The car must be at operational height. CAUTION: DO NOT measure with wheels hanging down from hoist or jack stands. Rear suspension must be at normal ride height to insure proper driveshaft length!!! Measure on the floor. Install a test yoke into the back of transmission, push all the way in, pull back 1.0". With the help of a friend measure the center to center measurement of the front u-joint to the rear u-joint on the differential. TIP: It is sometimes difficult to guess where the centerline of a u-joint is. By moving to the rear of the slip yoke u-joint cap instead of centerline and measuring to the rear of the differential u-joint cap it is the same as measuring center to center. You have just adjusted for the radius of the cap diameter and have a solid surface to measure on instead of an air gap in the center of the cap.

    If I use a long yoke, 1"
    If I use a short yoke, 3/4"

    For sure on that Tech.
    Last edited by DennyW; 03-12-2007 at 09:57 PM.

  4. #4
    brianrupnow's Avatar
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    This is an identical front yoke to the one installed---as you can see, the machined surface goes right up to the shoulder, and the internal spline runs another 1/2" past the shoulder on the inside. My trusty tape measure tells me that it is 3 13/16" from the shoulder to the end of the machined surface. Once I get some clear insight into what is actually going on, if my drive shaft is 1/2" too long, I have no reservations about cutting 1/2" off the end of the machined yoke with the air cut-off diamond wheel to give myself the needed clearance.
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  5. #5
    DennyW is offline Junior Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Originally posted by brianrupnow
    This is an identical front yoke to the one installed---as you can see, the machined surface goes right up to the shoulder, and the internal spline runs another 1/2" past the shoulder on the inside. My trusty tape measure tells me that it is 3 13/16" from the shoulder to the end of the machined surface. Once I get some clear insight into what is actually going on, if my drive shaft is 1/2" too long, I have no reservations about cutting 1/2" off the end of the machined yoke with the air cut-off diamond wheel to give myself the needed clearance.
    Just keep in mind you Need a certain amount of spline contact to keep the strength of them intact. Kinda like a bolt you cut off where it doesn't fill the full threads of the nut.

  6. #6
    brianrupnow's Avatar
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    Denny---It seems logical to me that if the yoke is inserted 1/2" farther into the tailstock than normal, then cutting 1/2" off the inserted end would end up with the same net amount of spline contact.
    Old guy hot rodder

  7. #7
    DennyW is offline Junior Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Originally posted by brianrupnow
    Denny---It seems logical to me that if the yoke is inserted 1/2" farther into the tailstock than normal, then cutting 1/2" off the inserted end would end up with the same net amount of spline contact.
    You can do it that way. I was thinking structure change of the metal once you cut the end off. And, does the yoke bottom out on the trans output shaft? Or is the spline short inside the yoke? Most yokes will go all the way in to the end of the yoke shaft. If it doesn't, you have a short spline yoke.

  8. #8
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    Denny---tell me more about this short yoke/long yoke business---maybe these 2 yokes aren't as identical as I thought. The one in the picture is the one I used to insert into the tailstock to measure for my driveshaft, exactly as per your drawing.---the one on the driveshaft looked the same but I never actually compared the length of the machined surface between it and the one I measured with.---in fact I didn't know they came in different lengths.
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  9. #9
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
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    Brian,

    I pulled my post. Denny and Tech had better answers.

    Cutting it off will work fine - as long as it was the end of the yoke bottoming out and not the trans output spline jamming in the yoke..

    Here's what I think happened. Even though the splines go all the way to the shoulder of the yoke, the output shaft of the trans isn't that long, so you bottomed out the end of the yoke inside the trans.

    How about carefully inserting a piece of welding rod inside the tailshaft next to the shaft until it bottoms out, then measuring the distance?

    How about pulling the driveshaft and comparing both yokes?

    If you're sure that the butt end of the yoke bottomed out, you can cut it off without any problems.

    Last edited by Henry Rifle; 02-08-2005 at 05:56 PM.
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  10. #10
    brianrupnow's Avatar
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    Damn Henry---I think I remember a time when life was simpler and everything fit the first time----don't I??????
    Old guy hot rodder

  11. #11
    DennyW is offline Junior Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Originally posted by brianrupnow
    Denny---tell me more about this short yoke/long yoke business---maybe these 2 yokes aren't as identical as I thought. The one in the picture is the one I used to insert into the tailstock to measure for my driveshaft, exactly as per your drawing.---the one on the driveshaft looked the same but I never actually compared the length of the machined surface between it and the one I measured with.---in fact I didn't know they came in different lengths.
    What Henry said is a good way to tell the length of the output shaft. This is also possible since you said it didn't go all the way in.
    The problem may be that the internal splines of the slip yoke barrel have a slight twist and the slip yoke needs to be replaced. This problem may be the result of too much horsepower for the slip yoke design and or material. A manual transmission or an automatic with a trans brake can cause this damage because of the forces applied to the splines during a starting line launch. If you look inside the slip yoke you will see a slight twist to the spline. This twist is usually at a point that corresponds with the end of the transmission output shaft. As you insert the slip yoke into the transmission it will bind when it reaches the twisted area.

    Hey, I'm just trying to help with info. You can do it anyway you think is right.
    I'm not pulling my post,
    Last edited by DennyW; 02-08-2005 at 06:12 PM.

  12. #12
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
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    Brian,

    The last time I made a driveshaft, I cut it off twice, and it was still too short.
    Jack

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  13. #13
    brianrupnow's Avatar
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    Denny---I find that you have a great knowledge of things mechanical, and I put a high value on your insights. Please keep in mind that I play at hotrods for fun, but it has never been my career. Really, I'm not sure exactly whats going on with the yokes. I like the idea of pushing a weld rod up the tailstock to probe for a restriction, and I think there is good credibility to your theory of a twisted spline. If I do pull the driveshaft, I will try the other yoke and see how far it will go in. I cleaned the outside of the yoke thats on the driveshaft, but I never looked at the inside of it before I assembled it. Maybe its a twisted spline, maybe its packed full of rust and grunge. I certainly wouldn't want you to pull your post!!!!!!
    Old guy hot rodder

  14. #14
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    Originally posted by Henry Rifle
    Brian,

    The last time I made a driveshaft, I cut it off twice, and it was still too short.
    What did you do the day after yesterday?
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

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  15. #15
    DennyW is offline Junior Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Originally posted by techinspector1
    Damn Denny, I'm impressed. I wouldn't have thought to check for twisted splines.
    Thank you Tech, hahaha. I was adding all the info I could think of to help out.

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