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Thread: How do you determine who's disc brake conversion you have?
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    testdepth is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    How do you determine who's disc brake conversion you have?

     



    This truck has 4 wheel disc brakes. I am unable to find the owner that put all of this together to drag race with. This truck needs new rotors but I cannot determine what year , make and model of vehicle they came off of or if this is a conversion kit. 9" narrowed Ford rear end and rotors as well as calipers are stamped Ford.

    I am starting to think I need to go buy another kit so "I" know what the heck is in this truck.
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    Last edited by testdepth; 01-13-2019 at 08:24 AM.

  2. #2
    MP&C's Avatar
    MP&C is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Looks like a Lincoln Versailles
    Robert

  3. #3
    Matt167's Avatar
    Matt167 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    A good OLD Ford dealer or one with the parts books can check the casting numbers on the calipers. But it looks like the Lincoln Versailles and that is a common swap.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

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  4. #4
    mrmustang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MP&C View Post
    Looks like a Lincoln Versailles
    I agree, 1977-1978 Lincoln Versailles disk brake set up.

  5. #5
    testdepth is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Caliper and bracket pictures for ID?

     



    I cannot find a new caliper bracket or caliper that looks like this.

    Center to center holes on caliper bracket is 7 3/4"
    Pads are 2" wide and 6" long
    Single piston caliper stamped FORD and it is all one piece

    The only way to remove the caliper bracket from the axle is to either cut it off or remove the bearing on the axle and slide the bracket off.

  6. #6
    34_40's Avatar
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    In this picture you posted. You need to remove the bolt that seen top center. The use a hammer and drift and slide out the retainer with spring. Then you can lift out the caliper.

    Wire Wheel, Wire brush what ever you got - clean it up all the sides and use plenty of never sieze during reassembly.

    I also wonder if your wheel studs aren't a problem. Looks like they are "un threading"?? Are they loose?
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  7. #7
    testdepth is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thanks very much. No they are not loose. I have them taken apart so I can try and figure out what I have here.

  8. #8
    testdepth is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Now if I can find an 11 1/2 inch rotor with 4.75 inch stud pattern and I am good to go.

    Thanks for the help
    Last edited by testdepth; 01-21-2019 at 05:59 AM.

  9. #9
    testdepth is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by DennyW View Post
    Have you checked rock auto ? Rears are 10.66 inches. Bolt Circle Diameter (IN)4.500
    https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...189032&jsn=662
    Yes I checked Rockauto for rotors that match these. These rotors are 11 1/2" with 4.75" and 5" stud patterns in them. The pads are 2" wide and 6" long. These rotors have already been turned down to minimum thickness before I got them.

    My axles are aftermarket Strange Engineering axles with 1/2 x 20 set at 4.75" position.
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    Last edited by testdepth; 01-21-2019 at 05:57 AM.

  10. #10
    Mike P's Avatar
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    "........Now if I can find an 11 1/2 inch rotor with 4.75 inch.........."


    Not saying they aren't out there somewhere, but what you have looks like Ford rotor that started out as a 5 on 5" bolt circle. You may be down to buying Ford rotors (1977-1978 Lincoln Versailles ? ) and taking them to a machine shop and having them redrilled for the 5 on 4 3/4" bolt circle.

    If you're brave (cheap) you could bolt the 2 drums together (hat to hat) with the 5" bolt circle and use the 4 3/4" holes as a drill guide/template to drill the new rotor.


    .
    I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved.....

  11. #11
    testdepth is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Thank you for the cheap suggestion. lol good idea and I may do just that.

  12. #12
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    I have done just that with axels and never had a problem
    Charlie
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike P View Post
    If you're brave (cheap) you could bolt the 2 drums together (hat to hat) with the 5" bolt circle and use the 4 3/4" holes as a drill guide/template to drill the new rotor.
    Just goes to show that you're never too old to learn a new trick. Thanks Mike.

    .
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    PLANET EARTH, INSANE ASYLUM FOR THE UNIVERSE.

  14. #14
    testdepth is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
    Just goes to show that you're never too old to learn a new trick. Thanks Mike.

    .
    Any idea that if by drilling the holes you somehow weaken the structure of the rotor?

    BTW Raybestos is no help! They make rotors and are unable to locate parts by using the dimensions. Guy wanted the application and was no better than going to AUTOZONE. I started to give it to him but just hung up.

    One piece at a time and it cost me every dime and you'll know it's me when I drive through your town. 1946 Studebaker M5 pickup hot rod drag truck with 9 inch narrowed Ford rear, lincoln Versailles calipers, 4 link suspension, god knows what up front with a 383 SBC stroker and TH350 trans. lol

  15. #15
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    I'd be less concerned with the weakened rotor as I would to getting the holes perfect and concentric; it's a fairly common practice to re-drill rotors.

    If you have a good quality drill press, precision center punches, and a precision alignment jig (just a cylinder to slide into the centers) then I'd say go for it.

    Otherwise, send it to a machine shop.

    Some folks say brakes are important. But hey, a 20s era board track Indian didn't have any at all.

    Pick your comfort level.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
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