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Thread: M-2 front suspension questions
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    bnewsom is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1952 Chevy Styline Deluxe
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    M-2 front suspension questions

     



    I have been pondering which front suspension to use on a 52 Chevy Deluxe and feedback from a previous post convinced me to use an M-2 setup. I have found a 76 Mercury Bobcat and best I can tell, is same as the Pinto which is same as the M-2. Is there any reason not to use the stock Bobcat crossmember and spring caps. It looks like a few hours of cutting, grinding and welding would save me the $400 that a store bought crossmember would cost. Has anyone done it this way? Will try to use steering column from same car but will have to use a universal or two to get aroung the Cadillac 500 engine. Also plan to use an ECI conversion package to mount third generation camaro disk brakes. Will use master cylinder/booster from donor camaro, of course mouting them off the firewall (which will need some serious setback to clear engine). Anybody see any potential issues with this plan? Thanks in advance for all the advice.

  2. #2
    BOBCRMAN@aol.'s Avatar
    BOBCRMAN@aol. is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Back in "the good old days" (I was there! where were they??) before sub kits and ready made crossmembers.We used to use cut up Pinto-Must II etc. stock front crossmembers. Untill you get into these you don't really realize how CHEAP and flimsy the stock pieces are!! Fords idea of re-inforcement is to spot weld multi sheets of body sheetmetal together and rely on the unit body construction to hold everything somewhat together.
    When you trim this unit from the donor car you are removing all this (bracing?!!) and then you have to grind away even more metal to get the thing to look like something. Plus you have to cut holes in it to position it on the new frame. Every cut makes this thing more flexi and eventually you have to start adding bracing ( adapting 1/8" plate to four layers of spot welded sheet metal is fun) and figure in your front end alignment specs (anti-dive etc). Thats why the kits are more time and safety efficient. That "few hours of cutting and grinding" starts to become days.Compare, even the cheapest kits use 3/16 ths thick crossmember material and the front end specs are already done for you. I used to make my own for the odd ball stuff I did, out of 2x4 and 2x6 box tubing. But you need a chassis jig to get it right. Example= Big block Chevy in 59 Ford Escort 100E, Small block chevy in a 58 Triumph 10, Big block Chevy in 60 Studie Lark, Small block Chevy in 36 Hudson Terraplane, 28? Essex Coupe. But now Fat Man even has kits for some of these! Who woulda thunk it!!!.

  3. #3
    kennyd's Avatar
    kennyd is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1961bubbletop,1967 chevelle conv.33 road
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    dont use a stock crossmember , save yourself a lot of grief , buy a new crossmember , heidts is by far the best . as bobcrman said the stock was braced with sheetmetal and in the best term weak . i have worked on a coustomers car that used a stock cross. and he could not keep the upper arm tight enough to keep them from moving after a little driving .
    yes i drove ,the trailer didnot drive it's self
    FATGIRLS ARE LIKE MOPEDS , FUN TO RIDE JUST DONT LET YOUR FRIENDS SEE YOU ON THEM

  4. #4
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Like Kenny said, get the new crossmember and find someplace less critical to ride, handling, and safety to save money.
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  5. #5
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
    Bob Parmenter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    And along with those fine comments, go back and reread your other thread, along with the attachment from Rotten Custom about the peculiarities of the Chev frame design. It's your choice, of course, whether you want to believe it.
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

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  6. #6
    kennyd's Avatar
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    as bob said , look at a nova ,camaro clip . i dont like them in pre 48 , but they seem to fit in later cars fine. just make sure you have a good measurment before you start ! measure 5 times cut 1 time .
    yes i drove ,the trailer didnot drive it's self
    FATGIRLS ARE LIKE MOPEDS , FUN TO RIDE JUST DONT LET YOUR FRIENDS SEE YOU ON THEM

  7. #7
    bnewsom is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Are you guys saying the frame would still be weak with a bought M-2 crossmember? Would the camaro sub-frame be stronger and make it easier to fit in the Cadillac 500 engine. I've got access to a mid 70's camaro but am a bit nervous about using it because I've never done this before. But after thinking about what all will have to be done to fit the Cadillac 500 engine in such as recessing the firewall and relocating the front body mounts, etc it may still be about equal work to use the Camaro sub. Also it may still save me a few bucks. I sound like I'm trying to be cheap but really just trying to replace time with money where I can if it doesn't compromise the quality of the finished product. Is there a sight that gives some details and pics of grafting the camaro sub or does anyone have any pics? Thanks again for replies - I need all the help I can get.

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