Thread: 1937 Dodge coupe

Tweet

Originally Posted by Easyrider

As for the 300 rear end, it seems such a shame to not use it, but it is way too wide. I'll measure it in the morning, just so we have a number. The other issue, which may be a problem, but not necessarily, is that the rear end has struts as well (independent rear suspension). I am pretty sure that I could hide the struts, and the supports, in the trunk. You know what would be a marketable thing, would be a kit that eliminates the struts, front and rear, from more modern suspension systems. I have not found anything on the net...

I'd be all about making some rear fender flares if the unit is a little too wide. Either that or slicing and dicing the rear fenders to install widening strips.
https://www.google.com/search?q=wide...IVAZeICh3I_QBc
I would not pass up an opportunity to make the unit work. Just think about the braggin' rights involved and the ride quality. Take lots of photos.

Eliminating the struts would involve engineering and fabricating an upper control arm, then mounting a conventional coil spring or coilover unit. With your training and some perseverance, you could pull it off, I'm sure. Get a copy of Carroll Smith's "Tune To Win" book and read it through. He shows how to make "paper dolls" in the back of the book, a kind of sample suspension system made of paper and using stick pins to test out a suspension geometry on paper before committing to hard parts. Carroll Smith is the only reason I was able to envision and construct an entire independent front suspension from scratch when building my '27 T Roadster. I read many other authors before him, but he was the "Guru-What-Am".

Googling Clanwilliam reveals a South African location. Is that where you are?

.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

I'd be all about making some rear fender flares if the unit is a little too wide. Either that or slicing and dicing the rear fenders to install widening strips.
https://www.google.com/search?q=wide...IVAZeICh3I_QBc
I would not pass up an opportunity to make the unit work. Just think about the braggin' rights involved and the ride quality. Take lots of photos.

Eliminating the struts would involve engineering and fabricating an upper control arm, then mounting a conventional coil spring or coilover unit. With your training and some perseverance, you could pull it off, I'm sure. Get a copy of Carroll Smith's "Tune To Win" book and read it through. He shows how to make "paper dolls" in the back of the book, a kind of sample suspension system made of paper and using stick pins to test out a suspension geometry on paper before committing to hard parts. Carroll Smith is the only reason I was able to envision and construct an entire independent front suspension from scratch when building my '27 T Roadster. I read many other authors before him, but he was the "Guru-What-Am".

Googling Clanwilliam reveals a South African location. Is that where you are?

.

My first task after breakfast tomorrow, is to go measure up the rear end of the 300c. I will report back. I agree that it is probably too early to throw in the towel on it. As for the engineering, I did mention that I flunked out in 1971, didn't I? I am a tradesman, by choice, by training (I have a dusty old Journeyman Lineman ticket someplace) and by genetics. I have worked with my hands my whole life, and I hope this project will be sort of a grand thesis of that. I actually made my living as a full time professional farmer, for 35 years, but most of my day to day work was with my hands.
Clanwilliam is a tiny village in Manitoba, Canada. I see you live in Hemmet. I am sort of your neighbour for 3 months each winter; we spend Jan/Feb/Mar on the beach in Oceanside.
Glen

Originally Posted by Easyrider

I see you live in Hemet. I am sort of your neighbour for 3 months each winter; we spend Jan/Feb/Mar on the beach in Oceanside.
Glen

My girlfriend and I love to bum around on the beaches at Oceanside and Carlsbad. It's only a little over an hours drive from home. Perhaps we could schedule a sit-down when you are there next. I'd like that.
Richard

.

Here's the tapered reamer I used when building the T front end. It was stolen from a storage facility I was renting here in Hemet, along with most of my other hand tools..... 7 degrees equates to 1 1/2" per foot of taper. Make sure of the taper used on your ballstuds before purchasing a reamer.
Speedway Tapered Ball Joint Reamer, 7 Degree

.