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Thread: 1937 Dodge coupe
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Easyrider's Avatar
    Easyrider is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Dodge Coupe
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    I have been looking at M11 front ends, and they look pretty good, but I am strongly thinking of a "Volare" clip. Well, actually a '82 Cordoba clip. The Cordoba has a track width of about 62", and my coupe is about 60", or a bit less. I can get the whole Cordoba for $250, delivered, including a 318 (don't know if it will run or not). I think I will buy the Cordoba, whether I use it or not, just to take it apart, and see how it compares to the '37. I am struggling to decide what to do, and this will help break the mental log jam. If I get the Cordoba apart, and the frame and clip look like it is something I want to use, Bob's your uncle. If not, $250 isn't a very expensive lesson.
    I was at a car show yesterday, and a guy whom I believe to be pretty knowledgeable, suggested going to a mid-2000's Chrysler 300, or such, with a 5.7litre Hemi. He recommended it because of good horsepower, small size (easy to fit into 37), and good fuel economy. This was not something I had considered, but it makes some sense. I am concerned about my ability to get it running in another body, because of the electronics, about which I am clueless. Another issue, is track width, which is 63". Can you make up for the extra track width with different rims, ie rims with different offset?
    As always, opinions are appreciated...
    Glen

  2. #2
    techinspector1's Avatar
    techinspector1 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '32 Henway
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    Quote Originally Posted by Easyrider View Post
    I am concerned about my ability to get it running in another body, because of the electronics, about which I am clueless.
    If you purchase a car that has been hit in the rear or side and is still running, you can use every piece of the wiring, the computer and everything else electrical from that donor and transfer it to your Dodge, You won't really have to know anything, just remove all of it from the donor and place it into your car. You would want to use the dash and steering column, shifter, etc. from the donor to make it all work.

    Quote Originally Posted by Easyrider View Post
    Another issue, is track width, which is 63". Can you make up for the extra track width with different rims, ie rims with different offset? As always, opinions are appreciated...
    Glen
    Sure you can, but be aware that you change the scrub radius when you do that. You should google scrub radius and learn the ins and outs of changing it. Moving to a wheel with a deeper inside bowl will increase the negative scrub radius, not necessarily a good thing. You also run the risk of the wheel rim contacting the upper or lower ball joints, not a good thing. Narrowing the control arms or re-positioning the inner mounts on the frame to make the tires/wheels fit into the fender cavity will change the entire front suspension geometry including instant center and roll center and you have no idea how the car will react. My approach might be to use whatever IFS I'd want to use and if it's too wide, build some fender flares onto the car or space the fenders out a little, leaving the suspension and steering geometry alone.

    Bottom line: You know for a fact that a Chrysler 300 turned, cornered and braked very well and had excellent transient response. Use it as is, with the factory wheels and tires. Current NADA value of a 2005 300C, with hemi, is $5,700. Shop for one with some body damage and you might be into the whole car for $3,500. You would then have EVERYTHING that you would need to complete the coupe. Stack all the sheet metal, glass and unused interior pieces together and sell them on craigslist at the end of the project to recoup some of the cost of the donor. Bada-bing, bada-boom.

    .
    Last edited by techinspector1; 07-12-2015 at 01:39 PM.
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  3. #3
    Easyrider's Avatar
    Easyrider is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 37 Dodge Coupe
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    Quote Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
    If you purchase a car that has been hit in the rear or side and is still running, you can use every piece of the wiring, the computer and everything else electrical from that donor and transfer it to your Dodge, You won't really have to know anything, just remove all of it from the donor and place it into your car. You would want to use the dash and steering column, shifter, etc. from the donor to make it all work.


    Sure you can, but be aware that you change the scrub radius when you do that. You should google scrub radius and learn the ins and outs of changing it. Moving to a wheel with a deeper inside bowl will increase the negative scrub radius, not necessarily a good thing. You also run the risk of the wheel rim contacting the upper or lower ball joints, not a good thing. Narrowing the control arms or re-positioning the inner mounts on the frame to make the tires/wheels fit into the fender cavity will change the entire front suspension geometry including instant center and roll center and you have no idea how the car will react. My approach might be to use whatever IFS I'd want to use and if it's too wide, build some fender flares onto the car or space the fenders out a little, leaving the suspension and steering geometry alone.

    Bottom line: You know for a fact that a Chrysler 300 turned, cornered and braked very well and had excellent transient response. Use it as is, with the factory wheels and tires. Current NADA value of a 2005 300C, with hemi, is $5,700. Shop for one with some body damage and you might be into the whole car for $3,500. You would then have EVERYTHING that you would need to complete the coupe. Stack all the sheet metal, glass and unused interior pieces together and sell them on craigslist at the end of the project to recoup some of the cost of the donor. Bada-bing, bada-boom.

    .
    I suspected that there was more to it than meets the eye. But, fender flares...how hard can that be? Hmmm.
    As for my engine/suspension conundrum, I have been pondering a few options. There is a running 331 Hemi for sale on the local online classifieds, for $1400, and a 340 for $2000. Either one would have a fair amount of "cool" factor, but neither would touch a modern hemi for drivability.
    As for a frame graft not being for the faint of heart, I'm not afraid of it. It's just a welding job, and I've been doing stuff like this (sort of) all my life. I'll likely hire a licensed welder do the final welds, but I'm pretty confident that I can get it cut and tacked together without too much heartache. Actually, I'm looking forward to it.

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