Thread: Rear susp questions

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I agree that moly isn't needed. I've used 4130, but only because I had a source that was cheaper at the time than DOM. Moly takes care to get a good weld. It has enough carbon in it to get brittle if it cools too fast.

I'm talking about the heim joint itself. The threaded bung it goes into wouldn't be moly. The 67 chevy 2 drag car I built had regular heims in the 4 link when I bought the kit. Half way through the season I had to replace them with chrome moly heims. I'm just thinking that there will only be 2 points there that is taking all the abuse. I'm going to try bushings I think. Anybody got any ideas on a bushing that will be large enough to take some abuse? I actually got a 70 chev truck out here now I'm working on for a friend, going to take some pics and a few measurements. I've had 2 people that have told me to use poly bushings. They both said if I keep the bars long, and close together in the front I don't have to worry about flex. I plan to use 2x4 box, 1/8 wall for the arms.