Thread: ladder bars

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I'm with Mark & Jack, mount the longest panhard bar that you can from frame rail across to the axle tube on the opposite side of the car to make the longest possible arc on suspension travel. Center your rear end at ride height, and it will then move slightly side to side as the suspension travels, but it will be constrained. I'd lose the angled bar at the front.

As stated the longer the bar the less arc it will have (= less side to side movement as it travels up & down). Whatever you can fit under the car & still clear those tires.



eeeeeyup. a panhard bar will hold it good'n solid.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...d726a2b562.jpg

yep mark i think i have seen your rear end i was thinking of you when i pulled the 9 out of the back of the GTO last week to take a 1/2 inch off each side and then painted it with some new spray can paint i never see it before it was appliance epoxy works great. on the top you can make a center post on the top of gear end then a lever with two link bar s one on each side of the lever it a watts but mounted on it side above the rear end maybe some on can draw it out for you

Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

I had a BB 72 Chevy Fleetside w/ tubs, Mickeys, ladder bars and a diagonal link. It was squirrelly. Gave up on diagonals for the street many years ago. Put in the longest Panhard bar you can fit - or a Watts link if it will fit.

i finished a 57 chevy step side i fixed all the screwed up stuff told him that track bar had to go. but he said no i tried to tell him the finer points on a tub car on the street . well was not going to hear any thing . truck had a 502 in it with the hard M/T 33/19.5/15 i knew he was going to put a show on I told him about the big dip in the road not to do what i knew he would .well i seen him put the truck sideways then waaaay side ways at this time the rear end hit the dip was not pretty. someone may of had poop in there pants when he finally had it the right way

The big Mickey's are a bit dicey on the Interstate when the wheel ruts are full of rainwater. I covered all three lanes and both shoulders of I-80 in Omaha during a downpour. Two of my kids were following me, and when I pulled off on the shoulder, they asked me what the hell I was doing. I said "It beats me - I was trying to go straight."

This is the truck before I tubbed it - 1972 with a 1967 hood.

http://i1027.photobucket.com/albums/...ps288472be.jpg

thanks for all the help i looked a little closer, the bracket is on the frame and the rear end just need to move a few wire's and my gas line for there tied to the mount on the frame. thats the reason i did not see it... then raise up the stabilizer bar for the end mount of the stabilizer is in front of the frame mounted panhard bar bracket,,, not a big deal then take the measuerments and find someome to build me the panhard bar

bought all my stuff to build my own panhard bar from lane automotive,, i will let you all know if it works... i am thinking i might need some new shocks also , time will tell

should i take out the diangle bar after i put in the panhard bar or run with both of them ??????????????

They will bind up with suspension travel being unequal in angles from different directions-----take it off

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ok diangle bar is out and it still does it,,, i am going to put in some new shocks and puting a mini spool this winter,, i hope that will help,,, if not i will rebuild the front end from the steering box down

spool is a no go on the street guys say they done it but is hard on the axles . you have some thing going on with this car needs to be gone over . i have had ladder bar cars out on the street other then abit hard hit on bumppy roads cars were like running on rails never had bad habits. but i gone on rides were a 4 link was put in up side down and poory built .car was not scary fast. just a scary ride

Originally Posted by pro70z28

As stated the longer the bar the less arc it will have (= less side to side movement as it travels up & down). Whatever you can fit under the car & still clear those tires.

Of the thousands of cars I have looked at over the years, I seldom find a correctly done Panhard bar. Here is a fair illustration of one that's done halfway correctly, but it's not long enough. The bar needs to be mounted all the way up against the backing plate on one side and to a frame extension on the other side, with the bar perfectly level with the roadway at ride height.
http://www.timskelton.com/lightning/...splacement.jpg

Also, the bar doesn't have to be a straight bar, it can be kinked or twisted or bent up like a pretzel any which way, as long as a line drawn through the attachment points is level with the roadway.

BZZZZTTT....
http://www.sonoransteel.com/images/P...ar_fjc_002.jpg

BZZZZTTT....
http://www.roadie.org/panhardbar16.jpg

BZZZZTTT....
http://www.hotrodscustomstuff.com/OL...e/Photo-14.JPG

BZZZZTTT....
http://www.mcdonaldbrosracing.com.au/images/pan1.jpg

BZZZZTTT....
http://www.fasttimesrods.com/wp-cont...2/DSC00004.jpg

Best installation I could find....
http://image.hotrod.com/f/featuredve...ird-gen-14.jpg

Also acceptable with simple mods....
http://www.shopfreedomracing.com/ima...080810551.jpeg

.

Now, tech.... That bar is nowhere near parallel to road surface...

But it does have promise.

Originally Posted by mbabbitt

ok diangle bar is out and it still does it,,, i am going to put in some new shocks and puting a mini spool this winter,, i hope that will help,,, if not i will rebuild the front end from the steering box down

A spool won't help your squirrelly handling problem. Have you checked caster, camber and toe on the front axle? Play in the steering box? How long is your panhard bar, and is it parallel to the ground?