Thread: Drive line setup

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Sounds like you need a new tail shaft housing bushing--------


How did you measure the run out??? and was the high/low spots at the same rotational point of the shaft????If for instance, they lined up exactly with the u joint cross---then you probably don't have the bearing cups seated properly--could be bend housing or snap rings not seated----

It's hard to get a good measurement because it's loose I thank it may be the bushing like you said. Is there anything wrong with making the bushing longer for more support. Also is brass or bronze?

The good tailshaft bushings should be sintered bronze, similar to the material that the good valve guides are made of.... Jerry probably knows the real name of the stuff......

good valve guide are manganese bronze .color looks yellow bronze . and phosphor bronze. color red bronze ... Sintered bronze or oil lite bronze cast bronze SAE 841 is ok for a tail shaft bushing porous can fill with oil . would not work for a valve guide .wirst pin bushing in Rods is AMPCO 18 mosty trade name aluminum bronze ... Valve seats are 25 alloy alloy 3

Ok thanks I have some aluminum bronze , how bout the length can I make it longer?

Originally Posted by 39 Chevy

Ok thanks I have some aluminum bronze , how bout the length can I make it longer?

Why would you not simply buy an OEM replacement??

No reason not to really, I guess it's just the thought of doing it myself

you can make one but by the time you cut it and press it in then hone to fit .your wasting a good chunk of bronze . there will be wast. alot of the trans bushing are roll flat steel butt locked ground and diped they are cheap but last if you make one you will need a oil groove maybe a X oiling groove keep that aluminum bronze some what wet /cool and happy if it get hot and dry... bad deal

Not sure what the advantage of being longer would be..... the proper fit and most of the support comes from the ID and splines on the input shaft fitting the trans output shaft correctly.... If it were a 5 or 6 speed road racer with lots and lots of shifts per lap the extra support of a longer bushing might help stabilize things a bit, but on a street car I doubt there would be any gain....

For Pat: in the sprint car days on methanol, probably just seeing what we wanted to see, but sintered bronze guides seemed to hold lube better on the valves. This was back in the late 70's, we played with a lot of different valve guide materials trying to run the valves tight in the guides without seizing them!!!! As with many things, modern technology and alloys seems to have all but eliminated that problem??????

i have some race engine on alcohol G Reeds bbc is nasty ..and some others and there just plane old manganese bronze guilds .SAE 841 is alloyed impregnated with SAE 30 oil it ok for door hinge bushing pilot bushing water pumps .motor bushing . alloy 936 SAE modified 64 machines better the 932 . all guildes i use are iron or special mix of nickel bronze . manganese bronze hi zinc bronze. some phosphors bronze for valve guides . coating on valve stem what valve is made of. honing for the right clearance and abit of luck helps i never been a big fan of drying up the stems much on all out race stuff . nothing is harded on guides then the old air cooled harley davidson engines

Thanks, sounds like I will be better of just to buy one and be done.

Thanke for the help fellows this is a good place for info.

since you are dealing with drive line problems, you probably ought to use the proper tools to change that bushing----or take a chance on killing off the tail housing

Ok I'm back I got the tail housing off I need to know how much clerance it should be between the shaft an bushing. Right now the bushing is .006 bigger than the shaft.

Are you measuring the I.D. with the bushing already pressed in? That's the measurement that counts.

Yes, i measured it with the bushing pressed in