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Great reading guys, I like all the input on and off the subject. I carry one of those 12vdc pumps and a plug kit in my regular truck and it has saved me more than once. Don't know why I didn't think of that for this application. Blowout the only thing to think about.. Thanks for the input.
Congrats to you and your family Jerry !
I asked the question because the back spacing is different on those than some of the other choices. Did they have spacers on them or is your track width wide enough for direct bolt on?Quote:
Originally Posted by Navy7797
I hear ya on that lotto thing.....:LOL::LOL:
I have the width, in fact with the spacers that are on there, its to wide by about and inch, tires won't go up inside the fenders without hitting them.Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
What size tires? front/rear. What is your rearend out of? width? It has wheel adapters on the rear, right? how thick are they? Are there spacers on the front, too?Quote:
Originally Posted by Navy7797
Geez, that's a whole bunch of questions isn't it? LOL!
I'm over loading trip the circuit breaker !Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
:LOL::LOL::LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by Navy7797
Ok, just slow down & take them one at a time.....:D
Ok Randy Here's the info:Quote:
Originally Posted by randyr
rear tires P255/60 R17
front tires P255/45 R17
Rearend is a ford 9" and I was told it came from a 1957 ford but I'm not to sure about that at all, I think its newer.
Outside track of the rear is 71.5" with 1" wheel adapters on each side. I have 3.25" clearance between the frame and the tires with the spacer/adapter installed. Rear needs adapters for the lug pattern difference.
Front end has a outside track of 66.5" with the 1" spacers installed, same lug pattern only used because the wheel won't fit center of the hubs. All this came with the truck when I bought it. I think I'll just have to live with what I have for now till I can afford a set of wheels that fit and look good on the truck. Wow this is a bunch of answers ! Thanks for your inputs !!!
Hey Navy, thanks for all the numbers. I wanted to compare what you have with what I have on my '37.Quote:
Originally Posted by Navy7797
First, if you have a 9" rear end with 5x5.5 bolt pattern, it had to come from a Ford pickup. The 9" was put into use in 1957 and the Ford pickups used the same width rearend from '57 thru '72. In '73 they widened the rear frame rails and thus built a wider rear end. The later rear end would be too wide for your truck so it's most likely '57-72. Lots of rear end info
The Ford 9-inch Rear End
Your rear end should be around 56" between the flanges and about 61" between the wheel mounting surfaces.
My rear end is from a '57 Ford car, which is roughly 3.75" shorter than yours. It's 52.25 between the flanges and 57.25" between wheel mounting surfaces.
Currently on my car I have a set of Boyd Coddington Smoothies (got them cheap on craigslist) 17x8 with 4" backspacing. Your Mustang Bullit rims should be 17x8 with 5.72" backspacing (thus without the spacer your wheels would be set too deep in the fenderwell to look good, IMO)
My tire size:
Front: 205/50/17 , 25.1" in diameter (free from a friend who got new tires on his BMW) (your fronts are 26" in diameter according to Tire Size Calculator)
Rear: 255/50/17, 27" in diameter (should be 28" or 29" to look better in my fender well. Will deal with that later.) (Your rears are 29")
My outside track width:
Front: roughly 66"or so (I need at least 1'' narrower wheel with the same 4" backspacing or 1" more backspacing for the front at my desired ride height for better fender clearance)
Rear: Roughly 69.5" with 2" between tire & frame rail. I have room for at least 1" wider wheel if the extra inch is to the outside or could use 1" spacer on rear.
Ok, so what's my point? Glad you asked..:LOL:
You can redrill your rear axles/drums to 5x4.5 but you'll probably still need the spacers for those Mustang wheels to look right. When you change wheels, you can get some with less backspacing and eliminate the need for the spacer. It will also give you a "deeper dish" look if you like that.
For the front, is it possible to have either the center hole in the wheel or the hub on the rotor machined enough for the wheel to fit without the spacer? Would that then cause the tire to rub on the inside/frame in a tight turn? If not, it should help with any fender rubbing issues on the outside.....
Whew! And you thought you typed a lot!!!:eek::eek::LOL::LOL::LOL:
You may have know all that already but if not, hope it's some food for thought.....:)
Randy: Thanks for that info ! I thought about putting the front wheel under my mill and take out the .100" so the wheel would fit but was afraid it would weaken the wheel. I could do the hubs also, just didn't know if that was a good idea or not. The hub has lots of metal. Thanks for the rear info very helpful !
What if you took .05" off the front wheels and the other .05" off the hub?
For the rear, if you like this style of wheel and want to get rid of the spacer, they make repop versions of them with 4" backspacing (or 0 offset on 8" wheel) for $128 each. You could redrill the rear axles and get a pair of these for the rear, using the ones you have for the front. 17x8 Mustang Bullit Anthracite "0" Early Mustangs Fords | eBay
That would narrow your outside rear track width to around 69" or so. Don't know if that's too narrow for your desired tire to fender well relationship or not....
Just tossing out more ideas cause I'm always considering a variety of things for mine, too....:3dSMILE: