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Thread: Triagulated 4 link set up
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Bob o is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Triagulated 4 link set up

     



    Hello....
    I am working on my 32 truck that I am taking over from my dad. He was installing a universal triangulated 4 link set up with coil overs. The question I have is the instructions came with dimensions on how far from the center line of the axle to the upper and lower link mounts on the rear end. If I use these dimensions the lower links don't run parallel to the frame rails. On ever set up I have been able to look at the lower links run parallel to the frame rails. In order to run the links parallel I need to move them a couple inches more then the directions. Am I ok to do this? My thinking is that the kit is for a universal set up so I gotta think I can deviate a bit as needed?

  2. #2
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Bottom bars need to be parallel with the ground at ride height, depending on tire size, coilover mounting point, and a number of other factors this may or may not be parallel with the frame rails. Most of the times on a Deuce frame they are very close to parallel with the frame rails.
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  3. #3
    Bob o is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Based on ride height and the coil overs I can get them parallel to ground I was more referring to side to side

  4. #4
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    Are you mounting them on the inside of the frame rail?

  5. #5
    Henry Rifle's Avatar
    Henry Rifle is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    4-Bar configuration

     



    Side-to-side, the bottom bars of a triangulated 4-link should be parallel with the centerline of the car and perpendicular to the rear axle. If that doesn't happen, adjust so that it does.
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  6. #6
    Bob o is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Henry that is the exact 4link I have but if I go 37 apart they are close to parallel but not exact I need to figure out the dimension but I figure they would be about 39 to 40 apart

  7. #7
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    You can run a heavy line or wire down the center of the frame and locate from that. Don't worry about the Heidt measurement. Frames can be a little different. Without seeing your chassis, I can't be sure, but I would tack the frame mounts on first, then locate the rear axle brackets by measuring off the centerline.
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    Jack

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  8. #8
    Bob o is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    It is the original 32 frame for the truck it has been shortened not sure how much....

  9. #9
    Bob o is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I stand corrected. I pulled the bed off last night and realized that the lower bars dont run parallel to the ground. The bars are higher in the front than the back. The brackets used in the front are mounted to the underside of the frame rail nd the rear brackets are also mounted to the underside of the axle. I guess my question is do I need to raise the mounts on the axle side? Basically the mount on the axle would be more on the front than the bottom?

    Thanks

  10. #10
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    How close is it are they to being level? And is that with the vehicle at normal ride height? The front being higher by say 1/2 : 3/4 of an inch is what I would believe to be within tolerance.

    If you're 3" different from 1 end to the other, then I'd search for a way to lower the mounts up front and / or raise the axle mounts. fwiw/imho/point 02/etc..

  11. #11
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I'm with what Mike said in the post above! I'd suggest getting the bars as close to parallel with the ground as possible. Might be necessary to modify the brackets to achieve this sometimes. IMO, anything more then 1/2" higher on the front of the bar is going to create more front end lift when you stand on it---good at the dragstrip but not good on the street as it will lead to oversteer on the front end when accelerating out of a corner or curve.
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  12. #12
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    Some detailed photos of what you have at present won't hurt for the guys to actually see what is happening or not. As you have removed the bed that shouldn't be to difficult to get photos looking straight down on the rear end and lying on the floor taking a photo or two of the vehicle at ride height.
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  13. #13
    Bug
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    I may be wrong but I believe the OP is saying that he can get the lower bars parallel to the ground but is trying to get them square/inline with the length of the frame. Moving them to get them parallel should not hurt but maybe the OP should call Heidts to confirm.


    I had a setup on my Cobra replica that had the lower trailing arms at an angle toward the tires at the rear end and the uppers were at an angle toward the pumpkin at the rear end.
    Last edited by Bug; 06-20-2013 at 09:36 PM.
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  14. #14
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    The bottom bars do run parallel with the frame, the top bars run at an angle. Same setup, except built in round tubing instead of stamped steel, that the factories have ran for many years on coil spring rear end cars.
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  15. #15
    Bob o is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I would say the lower bars are about 1" to 1.5" higher in the front. I am out of town for the weekend picking up the welding machines I will post some pictures on Sunday when I get home... Thanks for the help

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