Thread: Will this raise it??

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Well I started with the drivers side. All went well. That side is done. Then the passengers side. Came apart fine. I put the old spindle back on. Bolted upper in to place. Threaded lower nut on. Got down about 1/2", and it started to spin. Seemed like I was turning it to long a time. Took a look, and the nut hadn't moved. I did manage to get the nut back off. The lower was pressed on. I had to drill it out. I looked around town, but they don't have the complete assembly like speedway motors does. All I could find was just the ball joint.. On speedway I found this Pinto-Mustang II Ball Joint - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

Originally Posted by slantback37

Well I started with the drivers side. All went well. That side is done. Then the passengers side. Came apart fine. I put the old spindle back on. Bolted upper in to place. Threaded lower nut on. Got down about 1/2", and it started to spin. Seemed like I was turning it to long a time. Took a look, and the nut hadn't moved. I did manage to get the nut back off. The lower was pressed on. I had to drill it out. I looked around town, but they don't have the complete assembly like speedway motors does. All I could find was just the ball joint.. On speedway I found this Pinto-Mustang II Ball Joint - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

Hmmmm......not sure why you drilled the lower ball joint out of the spindle. You should have been able to pop it out with a pickling fork or used a puller like in the Rod & Custom article. Unless you damaged it, you shouldn't have to buy another new lower control arm unless it's more cost effective to do so. The lower ball joint is replaceable. The existing one may be riveted in. Just drill out the rivets and install the new joint with appropriate size bolts.

Have you compared the size of the lower hole in your drop spindles to the one in the stock spindles? If the drop spindle hole is smaller and therefore not allowing the ball joint to go in far enough, that could explain why your control arms were rubbing on the rims.

I'm sorry.. I drilled out the rivets that held it to the lower A arm. I found it three places now. They are calling it rare. Ball joints with just the two holes are like $16.00. The ones I need, because there are four bolts and sits on a little platform will cost between $45-$67..

Originally Posted by slantback37

I'm sorry.. I drilled out the rivets that held it to the lower A arm. I found it three places now. They are calling it rare. Ball joints with just the two holes are like $16.00. The ones I need, because there are four bolts and sits on a little platform will cost between $45-$67..

Thanks for the clarification. Now, why are you replacing the ball joint? Didn't you say you just bought the lower control arms with new ball joints?

Originally Posted by slantback37

Threaded lower nut on. Got down about 1/2", and it started to spin. Seemed like I was turning it to long a time. Took a look, and the nut hadn't moved.

Are you saying that the ball joint taper bolt was spinning in the ball joint? Bolt the ball joint back in place on the A-arm with proper sized grade 8 bolts, then seat the taper into your spindle by placing a large socket over the bottom side (protect your zirk or the threaded hole for the zirk) and rap it up sharply with a hammer. Shouldn't take much to set the taper in the spindle, then once your nut gets past the rough spot you'll be fine. Sorry if I am misunderstanding your problem here.