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Thread: Will this raise it??
          
   
   

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  1. #46
    cffisher's Avatar
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    There is nothing saying you didn't get the wrong ones It just looks like the ball joint should go in another 1/2 or 3/4 "????
    Charlie
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  2. #47
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    The top of the bolt is only out less than a 1/2". Like I said I will crank them down, or try to. Still I think I need to replace the coils..

  3. #48
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    Mustang II Coil Springs This guide may help others that have Mustang II front suspensions in the cars.

  4. #49
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    When you say "out less than a half inch", were you able to get the cotter pin in the crown nut?

  5. #50
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    Yes there is one in there..

  6. #51
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    Well i am going to tare into it today. I have read over every post, nad it makes sence to pull out the drop spindles and put the old ones back in. I was wondering if maybe my problem may also be that the spindles were not a name brand. I bought them off ebay. They may have been made in China. I bought the latest Rod and Custom last night and read the article. Still it states that it will lower the front crossmember. It doesn't say by how much though. When I put in the stock ones. It will raise the crossmember. By using the coils I have now, and the tires.. It should lower the body down some in the front. if it goes down to far then I will get the 450 Lb coils, and cut just a little off to lower it some.. Al

  7. #52
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    Al keep in mind the coils will need a little time to settle so I would be just a bit hesitant of how much coil trimming you do as they will settle down after a bit of time. You can alway's give them a cut later.

  8. #53
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    Well I started with the drivers side. All went well. That side is done. Then the passengers side. Came apart fine. I put the old spindle back on. Bolted upper in to place. Threaded lower nut on. Got down about 1/2", and it started to spin. Seemed like I was turning it to long a time. Took a look, and the nut hadn't moved. I did manage to get the nut back off. The lower was pressed on. I had to drill it out. I looked around town, but they don't have the complete assembly like speedway motors does. All I could find was just the ball joint.. On speedway I found this Pinto-Mustang II Ball Joint - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop

  9. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by slantback37 View Post
    Well I started with the drivers side. All went well. That side is done. Then the passengers side. Came apart fine. I put the old spindle back on. Bolted upper in to place. Threaded lower nut on. Got down about 1/2", and it started to spin. Seemed like I was turning it to long a time. Took a look, and the nut hadn't moved. I did manage to get the nut back off. The lower was pressed on. I had to drill it out. I looked around town, but they don't have the complete assembly like speedway motors does. All I could find was just the ball joint.. On speedway I found this Pinto-Mustang II Ball Joint - Speedway Motors, America's Oldest Speed Shop
    Hmmmm......not sure why you drilled the lower ball joint out of the spindle. You should have been able to pop it out with a pickling fork or used a puller like in the Rod & Custom article. Unless you damaged it, you shouldn't have to buy another new lower control arm unless it's more cost effective to do so. The lower ball joint is replaceable. The existing one may be riveted in. Just drill out the rivets and install the new joint with appropriate size bolts.

    Have you compared the size of the lower hole in your drop spindles to the one in the stock spindles? If the drop spindle hole is smaller and therefore not allowing the ball joint to go in far enough, that could explain why your control arms were rubbing on the rims.
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  10. #55
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    I'm sorry.. I drilled out the rivets that held it to the lower A arm. I found it three places now. They are calling it rare. Ball joints with just the two holes are like $16.00. The ones I need, because there are four bolts and sits on a little platform will cost between $45-$67..

  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by slantback37 View Post
    I'm sorry.. I drilled out the rivets that held it to the lower A arm. I found it three places now. They are calling it rare. Ball joints with just the two holes are like $16.00. The ones I need, because there are four bolts and sits on a little platform will cost between $45-$67..
    Thanks for the clarification. Now, why are you replacing the ball joint? Didn't you say you just bought the lower control arms with new ball joints?
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  12. #57
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    Yes. Not long ago I bought new. Both sides upper, and lower control arms with the ball joints installed. On the one I just drilled out. The center shaft will not tighten down. The whole shaft turns when you try to tighten down the nut. I can hold the base, put a vice grips on the shaft and spin it in circles. I would never be able to aply any pressure th seat it. Now I have to buy a new lower ball joint..

  13. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by slantback37 View Post
    Threaded lower nut on. Got down about 1/2", and it started to spin. Seemed like I was turning it to long a time. Took a look, and the nut hadn't moved.
    Are you saying that the ball joint taper bolt was spinning in the ball joint? Bolt the ball joint back in place on the A-arm with proper sized grade 8 bolts, then seat the taper into your spindle by placing a large socket over the bottom side (protect your zirk or the threaded hole for the zirk) and rap it up sharply with a hammer. Shouldn't take much to set the taper in the spindle, then once your nut gets past the rough spot you'll be fine. Sorry if I am misunderstanding your problem here.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  14. #59
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    I'm sorry if I didn't make myself clear. i took a few pictures of the ball joint.. There is a vicegrips on the shaft that moves..
    Attached Images

  15. #60
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    As I said, I'm sorry I did not understand your problem, and that you had destroyed the ball joint. When you get the new one, while the nut will often spin down without resistance it is not unusual for that shaft to turn. It is simply a ball and socket joint, and until the tapered shaft is engaged in the spindle there is only friction to keep it from turning. If the spring is compressed then you can rap the taper into the spindle with a hammer & socket. If not put your floor jack beneath the A-arm end, raise it up into position compressing the spring/shock and then rap the spindle down onto the taper. Regardless, you need to get the taper fit engaged to hold that shaft in place, allowing you to tighten the nut and torque it into place. Speedway has very fast delivery service....
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

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