Thread: Chassis Engineering parallel leaf installation

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It took me a few times reading that to get the picture in my head, but I understand what you are saying. The backing plate helps to bend the whole bottom of the C channel instead of just the edge.

I was realizing that the hammer was mostly bouncing off, but I'd like to believe it was doing a little bit of good. As thick as the double layer of steel is I wouldn't have thought I could bend it back with a cresent wrench, but it is worth a shot if this is a proven method . One issue with the backing plate is that where the front brackets mount where I'm trying to square it up is curved...maybe if i use a real narrow backing plate it would still prevent bending the lip and keep the curved shape in the rail.

My other solution is to maybe get a cinder block and a bar to pry up on the rail? Again though I'm concerned about the curve of the rail.

CE in the instructions says simply to "square the frame to 90* using a square" I tried beating the frame with the square, but it didn't work

What is the best way to make sure the wheels are centered in the fenders before permanently bolting everything up? CE provides all the measurements, but they can't be perfect. The rear of the fender flares out so I don't feel like I can accurately measure the fender opening and I am working in too small a space to be able to step back and really look at it . Also the shackle at 90* is a neutral position. Should I be positioning the shackle slightly backward or just at 90*.

This job is not getting done very fast only working a little in the evenings and I have some issues (nuts and bolts not threaded the same, brackets not fitting the frame, etc.), but it is moving along. Thanks

Really, the best way is to "eyeball" it, as that's what will be the measure once it's on the road. You want to bolt or clamp everything into place (suspension, axle, wheels/tires, body parts) as close to final (projecte/desired) configuration as possible and preload with some weight (sand/concrete bags, scrap metal, whatever) to approximate final loaded condition. If you don't have the final tires, or are unsure of what whould be best, you can make up cardboard cutouts to various diameters to play with. I would strongly recommend you figure a way to roll the vehicle out so you can get a long view of it from several angles to ensure you're happy with the results. There's no real effective way to tape measure a good look, sometimes what works best for the eye isn't "right" on a tape.

Welcome to the REAL world of aftermarket parts. My new TCI chassis had such poor instructions that I resorted to using their catalog photos to assemble it - along with several phone calls which seemed only to make it worse.

Lokar is another company that has nice pieces but crummy assembly instructions - and I'm using a lot of their pieces from a shifter, ebrake/cables and kickdown and more. I have bellyached to them at every show that I have seen them up to and including this year at York. I can't be too nasty as they are converting/replacing my tranny filler tube to the new style at no cost .

ok ok I'm going to figure a way to get a proper look at it. The CE dimensions do NOT add up and I'm tired of playing around with their crap and vauge answers to my questions. So if i fix the brakes on the GTO I can pull it out of the garage and for the other side if I can get the car back a couple feet I can look at it through the side garage door

This may have been mentioned I didn't read every word of the thread (being I have nothing to offer concerning this particular kit) but sometimes I think their "vague" instructions are to cover their ars. If they say "These are parts to be installed by a professional" and "To your design, so you are on your own" that releases them from the liability of the design. Just a thought.

Brian