Thread: How can I get my '32 Ford to hook up better???

Tweet

OOO OOO good stuff there for sure!

I still have to get the hang of resizing. I followed the recommended pixel reduction you mentioned and got a bit nervous in going too small. I'll learn to take your word for it some day. Then again, I have always had to learn the hard way

Nice Denny, I was worried about the clarity. On paper it's very nice, but as I worked it (with my limited patience) it was distorting. Besides, I figured age is creeping up on most of us and I wanted us old men to be able to read it.....LOL:

....humm, why can't you just adjust the bars to the drag race setting??? {bottom bar level, top bar pointed down}. Is there a down side to this??? Thanks, Bill

Originally Posted by billlsbird

....humm, why can't you just adjust the bars to the drag race setting??? {bottom bar level, top bar pointed down}. Is there a down side to this??? Thanks, Bill

Because the pinion angle will change as the rear axle travels up and down.

Even so, the change will be small and imo won't hurt anything.

I'm looking forward to running the drag race 4 link on my 31 with the bars parallel as is recommended for street use and then dropping the top bar one or two holes.
Traction may be improved - although with the skinny tires and torquey engine who could tell.

Take note that at least one of the aftermarket outfits makes a street oriented rear 4 bar setup with differing length bars upper and lower as a matter of convenience.
The bottom bar is shorter by a fairly good distance.
The guys running these don't seem to have any problems vis a vis the pinion angle change they create.

O.K. here is my two cents worth. When I was racing Pro Stock this is something you live with everyday you are at the track. We Had portable scales and a whole bunch of crap that you really don't need. You can accomplish the same thing with trial and error. The imaginary intersection of the 4 link depends on weight distribution front to rear. Ideally you don't want squat or rise, this is lost motion, you want to go forward as quickly as possible. Most importantly you want the car to go straight, so the pre load on the bars is critical.This is were you see a car lift the left front tire first in a twistig motion. The way we set that is with you in the car exactly the way you will race. Assuming you have right and left hand treads on your 4 link bars, and assuming you have aligned the rear end in the car square, loosen the jam nuts on the top left bar and have them turn it until there is no pre load at all on that bar. You should be be able to slip the bolt in and out freely. This will allow the front of the car to rise parallel to the ground and go straight. There are other ways of doing this, this is just the way we did it. If you get all this figured out and it's working really good cut your 4 link out and put a 3 link in it, that will really drive you nuts.

.....C9X, who makes the 4 link for the street??? THANKS everyone for your imput!!! Bill

Originally Posted by billlsbird

.....C9X, who makes the 4 link for the street??? THANKS everyone for your imput!!! Bill

Deuce Factory: http://www.deucefactory.com/index.as...ROD&ProdID=133

Chris Alston Chassis Works: https://www.cachassisworks.com/iwwid...ti_item_submit

The Chris Alston Chassis Works is the 4 link I'm using.
1 1/4" bars which are overkill on the street, but the car started out to be a dry lakes race car then it was decided to put it on the street.

The rod ends on the C.A. 4 link are very nice and imo better suited for street use than the usual polyurethane bushings and rings you see on most street oriented stuff.
Seems like the chrome plated bars weren't too much extra.


4 bars aren't too difficult to make.
The hardest part is threading them.
Much easier - and safer - doing it in a lathe.

The rear 4 bars and rear panhard on my 32 are home-made and work well.
You can save some time and it doesn't really cost much if you buy brackets from a manufacturer.
Peruse the catalogs and select appropriate brackets.
(The rear 4 bar brackets on my 32 are Alston* ladder bar brackets cut down and a new top hole drilled slightly lower.)
*Alston - used to be run by Tom Alston - was the forerunner to the Chris Alston Chassis Works outfit and may still be in business on a smaller scale.


The differing length 4 bars are offered by several street rod manufacturers.

....Update!; ok, first thing I did was switch tires to Hoosier Pro Street size; 31 x 12.5 x 15. The car not only 'hooks' better but also rides a 100% better than with the Hurst Cheaters! I decided against the M & H's simply because I want to go with something that is without a doubt 'street-able'. The reason for this is I ran over a PLASTIC mop bucket on the freeway & it tore a 4" x 10" piece out of my Hurst Cheater Slicks! The bucket stuck between the tire & the body & before I could stop it'd done extensive damage. So when tires such as the M & H cheaters say "not for street use" on them I'm going to listen!!! I'll update as I change things. THANKS Everyone! And I'm going to order Chris Alston's Chassis Book. Bill