Thread: '23 bucket with bump steer
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10-30-2006 08:21 PM #1
Yeah, it would be a perfect stable mate for the other two you have.
What is it they say about "most toys" and "dying?"
Don
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10-30-2006 08:25 PM #2
I realy don't want Or need MOST but I do have enough room for a few more projects in the shop. Besides I start getting S/S check here soon I figure I got to keep the econemy going.Charlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
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10-30-2006 08:27 PM #3
I was thinking that a stick setup could be run in a bucket if the engine were a little lower and a little farther forward.Charlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
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10-30-2006 08:28 PM #4
Besides I realy hate building stock just seems like its been done
Charlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
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11-01-2006 10:58 AM #5
As far as I'm concerned, the TP steering needs help. I made some significant changes in the car that I built after a couple of years of having it jump sideways off a bump too often. The reversed Corvair steering box mounts under the body and out of sight with the exception of the Pitman arm. The steering shaft is sloppy and is mounted on the steering box input shaft by a slip link, After mine split, luckily while standing still, I changed out the iron box for an aluminum unit that still had a spline. I used a Borgeson U-joint and fastened it rigidly to the steeing shaft and set screwed it to the input shaft. I believe that TP STILL uses that dangerous system, even after Mickey Lauria and I discussed my part failure and a friends.
Secondly, the drag link from the Pitman arm to the steering arm on the left spindle as well as the steeringarm/tie rod are too light - in both diameter,3/4" and wall thickness. If you watch them while driving, they flex and vibrate - A LOT!! I replaced mine with 7/8" Speedway race car pieces. I also replaced the cheap TP rod ends with regular tapered tie rod ends, even though I had to buy an expensive reamer (which I still have). After bolting all this together, a real significant change was seen. Also, at the same time, I replaced the wimpy Hurst/Airhart brake setup with a Wilwood and changed the juice jar master cylinder out to a dual unit - after losing my brakes 3 times when the crappy TP SS flex lines blew out. These were replaced by Russell DOT's.
So, for whatever it's worth, a Total Performance car is still pretty good, it just needs some refinements in some components.
And another item, the TP hydraulic e-brake is by DOT illegal, the mechanical one is OK. TP and I discussed this several times as well - now they have both.
The car has moved on from me - just hope the new owners have enjoyed it as much as I did building and driving the car.Dave

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11-05-2006 06:49 PM #6
where do you get panhead bar ?????
My ''T'' has a tube axle with the spring behind the axle. Does anybody have a plan on how to build a panhead bar???? Also where do you place it?? Or where to buy one @????Does anybody have pictures of one on A ''T'' . Sounds like that is what I need.............Thank You.........






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