Hybrid View
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01-10-2007 11:19 PM #1
When you start messing with the control arm pivot points, the inner tie rod ends on the steering rack won't be compatible with your front end geometry. As the suspension moves up and down, the arc that the outer tie rod ends move will be different than the arc at the steering arms, so you'll be forcing the toe-in to change . . . and you'll have the dreaded "bump-steer".
Originally Posted by Henry Rifle
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01-11-2007 04:27 AM #2
I do know that on my 48 F1 pu the width is a litte wider then stock mustang II and the rack has rack extenders to make up the differance NOT longer tie rods. I believe that is to resove the bump steer problem, which I do not have. Works great.
Originally Posted by Hot Rod Roy
1949 Ford F1 stocker, V8 flatty
1950 Ford F1 pu street rod
1948 Ford F3 pu projec
1948 Ford 2.5 ton dually project
1953 Chevy 3100 AD project to my 85 S10pu
1968 2.2 Ecotec Baja Bug kingCoil etc.
1998.5 Dodge diesel 4x4 many extras
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01-11-2007 08:46 AM #3
In theory, you're correct. However, I'll repeat what I said above:
Originally Posted by Hot Rod Roy
With the very limited travel most street rods have, I don't see a problem. This is not just conjecture. I shortend the upper A-arms on my '30 A-bone by an inch, and moved the lower ones inboard an inch. I saw NO problem with steering, no bump steer, no wandering, no effect at all. Interstate, city streets, drag strip (at 119 mph) . . . drove like a go-kart.Jack
Gone to Texas






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