Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: to low?
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 14 of 14
  1. #1
    bad13luck is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    pittsburgh
    Posts
    6

    to low?

     



    I've got a 72 c10 w/rear coils. dropped 6 in the back and 5 in the front. i just dropped a 400 in it and i'm having trouble getting it to hook up. its all hop and spin. any answers?

  2. #2
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    fort myers
    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 ford/'39 dodge/ '23 t
    Posts
    11,033

    You're in Pittsburgh, there is SNOW on the streets, thats why you can't hook up.

    Just wanted to say Welcome. I'm from Pittsburgh originally too.


    One of the drag experts on here will be able to give you some good suggestions, I'm sure, so I'll leave that to them.

    Glad to have another Steelers fan on here.


    Don

  3. #3
    gwaidman is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    kelowna
    Posts
    17

    What is the setup for rear suspension? If it is just a factory axle with coils on perches you may be getting excessive axle wrap. You may want to consider a panhard bar on 3 link or even going to a 4 link set up. Just my 2 cents!
    65 Mercury Meteor Montcalm
    58 VW Beetle

  4. #4
    bad13luck is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    pittsburgh
    Posts
    6

    facory exept for the drop springs and 4.11s. i think clearance is a problem i've only got an inch and a half empty, and it takes about 75 lbs to bottom that out to nothing. maybe shave the bump stops and an adjustable tracking arm?

  5. #5
    CHEVYBOY's Avatar
    CHEVYBOY is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    apollo
    Car Year, Make, Model: 96mustang,56dodgepu,39fordpu,69camaro
    Posts
    256

    hey welcome, im from apollo pa

    Harmon

  6. #6
    R Pope is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Eston
    Posts
    2,270

    Sloppy rubber bushings will do that. Try to find some urethane replacements.

  7. #7
    shawnlee28's Avatar
    shawnlee28 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    so.cal
    Car Year, Make, Model: 66 c 10 fleetside longbed
    Posts
    1,942

    Got less than a 100 bucks in this set up and I think yours is the same.May help with traction?Trailing arms make the rear end completely fixed as far as wrap or twist,but wheel hoppin is the down fall.No weight and not alot of transfer of weight.Once coils start hoppin it only gets worse ,like a industrial pogo stick of sorts.Short coils are also stiffer than normal height coils so that makes it worse.
    Attached Images
    Last edited by shawnlee28; 09-07-2006 at 10:34 AM.
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  8. #8
    BigTruckDriver is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    TX
    Car Year, Make, Model: hotrod
    Posts
    1,830

    Quote Originally Posted by bad13luck
    facory exept for the drop springs and 4.11s. i think clearance is a problem i've only got an inch and a half empty, and it takes about 75 lbs to bottom that out to nothing. maybe shave the bump stops and an adjustable tracking arm?
    Tell me exactly how you got your 5-6 drop.Also you do need more clearence.You can find bolt in c-notches for your truck for about 150 dollars,these trucks have the frame rails doing some funny curves over the area where the rear end is,the 150 parts fit perfectly.Also you said its 5-6,not extreme ,but still a big drop .Did you use the correct parts to get this drop, or did you just cut and heat the original springs?When you go that low you change EVERYTHING,all your angles change.Also if you did heat the springs any ,that is the wrong way to do it .ECC,and Early Classics sell kits to get this low,and take care of all critical angles ,and springs are made exactly for your application.The kit even comes with shock relocators to give you proper shock angles.When you go this low you will also need a adjusteable panhard bar,or one that is the correct length (the longer the bar the better).The stock bar no longer works when you go this low.Just with using either one of the kits they will correct ALL of your issues,you will wonder why you didnt before.You truck will have a lower center of gravity,and handle like a charm around town,and the strip.Don't forget sway bars also.I have done a couple with "High Performance" in mind.These trucks have a "special" suspension set up.Its kind of a nascar suspension ,IN A 35 YEAR OLD TRUCK.This suspension can handle I hear from research about 900 horses on the drag strip (set up correctly, top notch parts). 400 or 500 should be no problem .I would use urathane bushings through out and stiffer trailing arms.Around the 500-600 range you need a through frame anti roll bar in the rear(sway bar). I'd say 600 horses go with a strictly strip suspension for best drag strip performance.All though, the "stock" suspension can handle it pretty good (set up correctly).Any bigger then that it would have to be a track only so go with a strip only set up.

    Man ,I bet that thing is pretty scarry to drive ,driving with that much travel in the rear is dangerous.A bad suspension is no good,it can cause you to wreck.I have lowered a few of these trucks ,so if you have any more question I'll surely give my 2 cents
    Last edited by BigTruckDriver; 09-07-2006 at 08:34 PM.

  9. #9
    BigTruckDriver is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    TX
    Car Year, Make, Model: hotrod
    Posts
    1,830

    I tried to return your PM ,but it said you were not a known user Heres a link for one of the high performance sites I came across ,maybe you can get some ideas.check shock angles and lengths ,panhard bar length,worn shocks.Bad springs and wrong length panhard bar are sure causes.


    http://www.hotrodstohell.net/
    Last edited by BigTruckDriver; 09-07-2006 at 08:19 PM.

  10. #10
    bad13luck is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    pittsburgh
    Posts
    6

    didn't get the link. of course i'm computer illiterate. try again

  11. #11
    BigTruckDriver is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    TX
    Car Year, Make, Model: hotrod
    Posts
    1,830

    anyone else get it?

  12. #12
    Stu Cool's Avatar
    Stu Cool is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Olivehurst, CA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '53 Studebaker Custom w/LS1
    Posts
    1,900

    Yup, it showed up for me. Here it is again:

    http://www.hotrodstohell.net/

    BigTruckDriver gave you some excellent suggestions.

    Pat
    Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!

  13. #13
    bad13luck is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    pittsburgh
    Posts
    6

    Quote Originally Posted by BigTruckDriver
    I tried to return your PM ,but it said you were not a known user Heres a link for one of the high performance sites I came across ,maybe you can get some ideas.check shock angles and lengths ,panhard bar length,worn shocks.Bad springs and wrong length panhard bar are sure causes.


    http://www.hotrodstohell.net/
    PERFECT! iknew somebody made something. thanks, i never would've found it myself. i think that kit+your suggestion about the cheap c section and i should be good. anything would be an improvement though, right now i'm sitting like Atlantis... dumped a bunch of money in and still no launch.

  14. #14
    BigTruckDriver is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    TX
    Car Year, Make, Model: hotrod
    Posts
    1,830

    Don't forget to check out CPP,and Early Classics.They have kits made specifically for lowered trucks.They also offer a longer panhard bar that goes from the frame to the opposite trailing arm.The stock one is only half this length.
    Last edited by BigTruckDriver; 09-08-2006 at 03:52 PM.

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink