Thread: ratrod suspension setup

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I didn't really want to cut this nice cab but it looks like if I don't then I have to compromise ride height and the look I'm going for. I'll post some progress pics later today.

i used a piece of 10 inch 1/8 pipe which i split in half for the tunnel it does a realy good job if you want a nice clean shape without any problems

I thought I'd update the project. I have my frame table built and the cab , axles set and the front half of the frame built. Next will be the back half of the frame , and make a tunnel in the cab and a driveshaft hoop in the center crossmember.

http://coogan.efirehose.net/37chev/frame1.jpg
http://coogan.efirehose.net/37chev/frame2.jpg
http://coogan.efirehose.net/37chev/frame3.jpg

Lookin good!!!!

I'm pretty excited about my progress so I thought I'd update the project. Next I have to figure out the steering. I'm going with a reversed corvair steering box and a drag link which is still on order. That's the tough part about building a hot rod in Canada , everything comes from the US and usually adds extra time in the shipping.

http://coogan.efirehose.net/37chev/roller1.jpg
http://coogan.efirehose.net/37chev/roller3.jpg
http://coogan.efirehose.net/37chev/roller4.jpg
http://coogan.efirehose.net/37chev/roller5.jpg

I left the front frame rails long for now because I haven't decided how to finish them. What's the best old skool look ?

You may already know this but thought I'd mention it anyway. When you mount the steering you want the pitman pivot in line with your rear hairpin pivot, and the drag link parallel to the hairpin. That will help minimize bump steer.

Hi, which pitman arm pivot, the one on the steering box end , or where the pitman arm connects to the drag link ?

That would be the box output if the pitman arm is straight up and down (as it should be) as bump steer is most apparent when you're steering "straight".