Thread: Rack & Pinion measurements?

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Originally posted by DennyW
You might want to take a look at some of these links, and check through the pages. You can stream line any steering if you pick the right things, and apply it to how you want to drive. Also, very good info for the newer guys to the auto world.

Heres a few. They list them by lenghts, for ratios, and explain a lot. To much just to add here. Have fun reading. The first explains what the ratios does.

http://www.howeracing.com/Steering/I...ackPinions.htm

http://www.stockcarproducts.com/steer12b.htm

Nice info on this also, and a parts list.

http://www.howeracing.com/Steering/I...s-Appleton.htm

And this one for quick reference

http://www.atlantadrives.com/racks.htm

PS: 60 ? .0625 is 1/16" on a tape measure. You should have no trouble seeing a 16th of an inch movement. If so, do you have a dial indicator ? Several ways to check play.

Awesome sights, Thanks!
I'm pretty sure I have no movement, but my wife was helping me hold the tape measure, while I was bouncing up and down on the car . I need a dial indicator to know for sure, I will check it this weekend.

take the spring out and put a jack under the lower a frame and jack it up a little at the time, then you'll know.

The diagram of tie-rod length is a great start (thank you) Are there any sites that give specs of their R&P offerings and offer the sleeves and tie rod ends to fit various length requirements and applications or reveal what stuff on NAPA's shelves will adapt? I live 40 miles from the nearest junkyard and would rather use new or recon stuff and I don't think NAPA will allow me to go in back and start opening boxes.

Originally posted by AzDon
The diagram of tie-rod length is a great start (thank you) Are there any sites that give specs of their R&P offerings and offer the sleeves and tie rod ends to fit various length requirements and applications or reveal what stuff on NAPA's shelves will adapt? I live 40 miles from the nearest junkyard and would rather use new or recon stuff and I don't think NAPA will allow me to go in back and start opening boxes.

im not sure, but i believe napa books show you what you need if you can get someone to help you. good luck.

The tie rod length is not to big of a problum, I used a k-car rack on my volare front clip. Had a piece of 7/8 hex stock drilled an tapped for the volare tie rod ends then had the tie rods shortned to the length I needed and had them threaded to the size of the tie rod ends. Yes they are both right hand threads but the front end guy got it lined up an it runs great,

you just need to get the bump steer as close as you can get. if you dont you toe end will be changing with every bump.

Pic of the 48 project, and front suspension.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...8sidesmall.jpg

Check with Fatman Fabrications in Charlotte NC. He has several drawings of different rack and pinion applications.

had to use a 12" dragster r+p with about 4 1/2" added to each end here. don't just settle for what is available if you need a specific length.
be sure and TIG it if any mods are necessary

I have in been do metal fabrication for 30 years now. I would hope I have the know how to do simple auto. Would I build a Engine, NO!
Heidts web site explains better then this guy, Richard/Dick
No pun Richard my Name is Richard also
I have been searching the wide world of the Internet for information about what you have
been looking for.
The B line between the upper and lower control arm pivots as shown in ITS10 diagram
Make an adjustable fixture (Fake rack) out of 5/8” all-thread and with 2 pivots point and all-thread nuts (Nuts made just for all-thread). Use the 4 all-thread nuts for your adjustment and pivots. Pivots. I use old swivel sockets and tack them the nut
So you’ll have 3 pieces, 2 fake tie rods and a fake rack.
You have to make the fake rack adjustable for up and down, forward and rear movement
Take 2ea. 5/8” nuts and tack 2 pieces of 1/4” all-thread at 90 degrees.
Find some angle Iron or make one long enough to clear your frame and cut slots on the heel and toe of the angle so when the angle iron is attached to the vehicle you can move up, down, forward, and rear. The 5/8” nuts and tack 2 pieces of 1/4” all-thread can be bolted to the angle.
Attach the angle to the frame some how so it will not move.
.
Look at Fig. 4 http://www.heidts.com/heisinfo.htm you’ll see where I’m going
You’ll see .060 of movement just setting the fake tie rod on the tie rod knuckle
and bouncing the vehicle
You’ll soon find the sweet spot, youll know exactly what rack measurement you’ll need.
If you need a pic of this I can send you one.

Rick