The engineers at GM (or any car company really) responsible for the peripheral devices attempt to satisfy the majority of the stated design requirements in an “affordable” manner that will allow production of components that are:
• well suited to the task
• transportable among multiple platforms (i.e., Camaro, El Camino, Nova, Impala, etc. – entry level V6 – big block engines)
• suitable for many production years

In regards to cooling “systems” GM has done a very good job with fan clutches and shrouding. The factory setup brings cool air into the radiator and the shrouding provides near perfect efficiency in ducting said air across the radiator and back across the engine. In stock configuration (clutching fan, 180 degree thermostat and 50/50 glycol-water coolant), a factory car can transverse Death Valley or climb the Grapevine at 80MPH and the temperature would not exceed 200 degrees.

As our vehicles age, it is not unusual to encounter problems related to overheating. The first place to look is the radiator. A good reverse flush, new thermostat, and 50/50 coolant mix cures most problems.

The next most likely problem is the fan clutch. They’re a bit tricky to diagnose but telltale signs of a bad fan clutch are:
• fan spins when the engine is shut off
• wobble (could also be water pump)
• poor air conditioning at idle
• oil leaking around fan clutch
• vibrations

When in doubt, change the fan clutch. The Hayden HD thermal 2747 fan clutch is the best $50 you can spend along with $25 for a Mr. Gasket 4364 180 degree thermostat.

In all but extreme engine builds, the stock fan and shrouding is the best way to cool the engine. If vehicle modifications or larger engine installation causes a clearance issue I would always try a flex fan and then electric (in that order). Any after-market fan system should incorporate a shroud if at all possible to maximize the air flow across the radiator (as well as provide some modicum of safety).