Thread: getting cold, anyone ever make a grille cover/screen for a 1930s Ford?

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Originally Posted by jerry clayton

So I guess you don't want to reply to questions-I'll just check out of this unless you decide to answer my questions----------

By the way-ask your friend if he ever heard anything about me-------

First off his friend told me he didn't know much about you other than you don't post pics either.....

Second of all, there is a 90* coming right off the radiator, and then 2 45s before it gets to the t stat housing.

3rd, those center bolt valve covers can be put on older heads with adapters. That intake doesn't look like an air gap either. But it does resemble some chinese wanna be air gap types I saw a while back.

Do you just feel like busting this guy's balls or what?

It's too bad the previous owner jacked this car up so bad, From the pics it looks like it presents as a really nice car!
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Originally Posted by 40FordDeluxe

First off his friend told me he didn't know much about you other than you don't post pics either.....

Second of all, there is a 90* coming right off the radiator, and then 2 45s before it gets to the t stat housing.

3rd, those center bolt valve covers can be put on older heads with adapters. That intake doesn't look like an air gap either. But it does resemble some chinese wanna be air gap types I saw a while back.

Do you just feel like busting this guy's balls or what?

It's too bad the previous owner jacked this car up so bad, From the pics it looks like it presents as a really nice car!
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Thank you:


spent half the morning at the shop working with Jeff tearing down everything. 6 hours late for my primary job, but made it here at least for the last 4 hours.


The casting numbers on the motor are from a 1970-1973 Camaro.

The heads are L31 Vortec Heads according to Jeff.

The intake is a Edelbrock RPM model not sure of the actual model because he polished it and rubbed off the casting numbers, but it looks like he might have cut out the divider in the square bore himself, as I can't find any images online that match what this one looks like. The performer has a solid divider in the bore, the rpm has a cut out, but doesn't have the heat passage inlets on either side of the mounting pad, Could be a performer RPM, that is the closest I can find to this one, but it isn't stamped as performer RPM, and it has the bore cut. Anyone's guess. If I get time next week, I will get some pictures of it. not going back to the shop until after the holidays. Parts won't even be in until then.

The carb is a Edelbrock 1406 that was mounted on some weird ass spacer plate made of copper then had a round bore gasket, a square bore gasket, then another round bore gasket on the top and bottom of the copper plate for a total of 6 gaskets of different designs.


The water neck to radiator hose sits at a 45° angle then snakes into a 45° bend then another bend that is 53° to the 90° bend into the radiator, all angles were measured this morning. to many turns in the hose and too steep of an angle to the radiator from the intake, likely the issue with the under heat problem, water can't make it up and back into the radiator and is falling back into the motor.



The plan:

1. replacing the intake manifold with a 71163,
2. replacing the carb with a 14063,
3. replacing the water neck with one that is 1.5" taller and has a 45° offset neck so the hose will be at a roughly 45° angle and a single bend to the radiator,
4. replacing the thermostat with the "sleeve" style one suggested by 34_40 (BTW Jeff 100% agrees with you on this point, he rarely suggests it because people don't want to spend $40 on a t-stat).
5. adding a cool-view water neck spacer so the thermostat action is visible and I can check if it gets stuck open (https://coolviewthermostat.com/), this might be temporary as I am not keen on gimmicky stuff like this, but Jeff suggests so we can verify weather or not the t-stat is sticking.
6. removing the carb spacer which was there so the air cleaner could clear the distributor,
7. Adding a air cleaner spacer for the clearance issue, so the carb will be sitting on the new intake with no spacers or added junk, as designed.
8. replacing the fan switch with an adjustable one also as suggested by 34_40,
9. replacing all the crappy fancy chrome allen head bolts all over the motor with normal grade 8 bolts hopefully in black to match the new intake and carb.

I want to thank DennyW, 34_40, and 40FordDeluxe for their assistance. sorry if pictures and info wasn't more forthcoming from me, but as stated I work 16+ hours a day


as for Mr. Clayton:

I don't care you who are personally, celebrities and entitlement minded people who think they are special don't phase me, I could care less if you are the President of the USA or some industry god to others, to me you are nothing more than a grumpy, crotchety, old fart with nothing better to do that be an internet troll and bully..