Thread: getting cold, anyone ever make a grille cover/screen for a 1930s Ford?

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Some items of interest I'd like to know-------
What engine? Heads? head gaskets? water pump? ALUMINUM heads or pump? under/over drive on pump speed? electric pump? radiator size, number of fins per inch, alum/brass?, tube size/number?, guage type,oem?,6 or 12 volt?, positive/negative ground? type of sensors?,location?(not ON pump, but into pump/head) type of sealant used on threads of sensors?, water pump bypass for idle low rpm flow?

Also valve covers--------finned aluminum??????

any flow restrictors in hoses??

Reverse drive on waterpump?(serpintine belt drive turning pump backwards)

Transmission heat exchanger mount/plumbing------

Originally Posted by jerry clayton

Some items of interest I'd like to know-------
What engine? Heads? head gaskets? water pump? ALUMINUM heads or pump? under/over drive on pump speed? electric pump? radiator size, number of fins per inch, alum/brass?, tube size/number?, guage type,oem?,6 or 12 volt?, positive/negative ground? type of sensors?,location?(not ON pump, but into pump/head) type of sealant used on threads of sensors?, water pump bypass for idle low rpm flow?

Also valve covers--------finned aluminum??????

any flow restrictors in hoses??

yeah I'd like to know all of that as well.


bought the car from a 92 year old man that built it 20 years ago and I use the term built loosely as it appears he had several shops do work on it and things are just a mess. for example the transmission bolts sheered off awhile back, as they were not automotive grade bolts, but whatever he picked up at home depot, when we went thought the car we found the same in several places and a mix of metric and standard, and mis-matched sizing and threading. even a lot of forced in striped threads and bolts.

Then of course there was the issue where he installed radius arms on the front and welded them to the '39 frame, but didn't re-enforce the frame and they ripped completely off the car and tearing the frame in the process.


or we can talk about the issue where he mounted the battery in the trunk and used an el-cheapo battery from auto-zone, installed a power actuator for the trunk lid with no release and no relocation of the battery terminals, so when the battery died I was assed out of getting into the trunk, and had to remove the entire back seat to access the area, then have my 9 year old daughter who was the only one small enough to get between the cross framing he welded back there to pull the cotter pin on the actuator. All of which we were completely unable to do until we figured out how to open the doors because he shaved the handles and installed an electric release. not a manual, so with a dead battery we couldn't open the doors either.


Then of course there was the issue where he installed the door poppers, windows, headlights, and cooling fans on the same circuit and used 30 amp inline fuses daisy changed together forming a single line of 120 amp worth of fuses and the resulting dash electrical fire that I had in my office parking lot one day, and luckily enough I was cognizant of the smell of burning electrical parts and had an extinguisher within reach so it only resulted in a melted mess of wires and not a full blown car fire.


or how about the rear windows that ran like a waterfall when I got caught in rain, and when I took it to the shop they told me it appears that bathroom caulking was used to seal the windows..


or that he lied to be and told me the motor was a ZZ4 crate motor and when I pulled the casting numbers discovered it was out of a 1970-1973 Camaro.


or how about a brake booster and reservoir that are installed under the car with no access panel and less than an inch of access to remove the cover and refill the reservoir.

or would you like to discuss the wiring of the headlights where the high beams were wired to the second pull of the headlight switch, and the first pull was headlights and parking lights which overheated and burned out the switch.


or lowered suspension with tires and wheel offset in the rear that resulted in rubbing against the upper inner fender wall that literally wore a hole through the fiberglass fenders, and the rubbing was apparently from the moment the tires were installed because the tire sat in the worn out hole when stationary.



I bought the car to finish it off, as the interior wasn't done and since it had this ongoing overheating issue he couldn't figure out he just wanted to get rid of it, and while I got it for IMO a good price based on what I see other 1938-1939 Tudors or Humpbacks going for, I spent all of my budget for the interior and paint on rebuilding the car and correcting all of these issues.


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Now this morning I have a ticking/tapping/clicking sound coming from the motor which wasn't there yesterday..

I'm thinking it is spark knock, the car is having issues with cold start, appears the electric choke isn't functioning correctly, and I noticed what I think is part of the carb gasket sitting on the intake; pieces of black material that appears to be the corners of the gasket and the carb was loose, the bolts that hold it to the intake each took an 1/8-1/4 turn when I checked them and I was able to slightly rock the carb with my hand. it's definitely wasn't secure. I hope I can make it home 30 miles tonight without damaging anything.. I'm on the fence about calling AAA and having it towed home.