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Thread: 1950 chevy truck hot rod, old issues looking for ideas
          
   
   

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  1. #31
    tcodi's Avatar
    tcodi is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 1950 chevy pickup
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    yeah I understand all the geometry you described, I did take my time setting it up and moved the entire thing through it's full travel range making sure nothing bound because I was concerned about the arc from the panhard, but it travelled fine.
    Famous last words of course, because at the end of the day it clearly wasn't happy there and broke free.
    Anyway, that thing will be history once my eye bolts arrive to hook up to my bed and I get that thing lifted.

  2. #32
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
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    I'm with Richard! All the ailments of a panhard bar can be eliminated by doing away with the panhard bar and installing Watts linkage! As a suggestion, perhaps when you were doing the design and mock up on your panhard bar you didn't take into account the side load forces on the bar when cornering, or just backing out of the garage and turning too sharp? I've seen a lot of suspension designs fail under load that worked perfect when the car (truck) is sitting still with none of the twisting, torquing, and turning forces applied to it.
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  3. #33
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    The watts link is slick. Do the exterior mounting points need any particular location? Offset / level
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  4. #34
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 39 Ford Coupe, 32 Ford Roadster
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    What tire sizes/wheel widths you running? What air pressure?

  5. #35
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    testing my memory now
    I think 245/55's rear and 235/55 up front on 17's.
    and probably low 30's pressure
    I'm not positive though, I recently changed my tire size to get more sidewall because I didn't like the look when they were really low profile
    robot, 53 Chevy5, rspears and 1 others like this.

  6. #36
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by firebird77clone View Post
    The watts link is slick. Do the exterior mounting points need any particular location? Offset / level
    Not really, one bar high to one frame rail, the other one low to the other frame rail and a really smooth acting pivot in the center... Now, if you really want to study suspension geometry, check out a Jacob's Ladder on a sprint car!!!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
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  7. #37
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    To post #35: Good, I also dislike the O-ring tire look. Also, as sidewalls get shorter, the suspension has to get softer to absorb the ride.....since the sidewalls have little flex when the sidewall height is minimized. Newer cars with the short sidewalls have really soft suspensions.

  8. #38
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    yeah that's part of the reason I wanted more profile.
    partly because I didn't like the look, and partly because I figured it would at least partially soften the suspension

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