Thread: Gotta Model A in the shop

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Well, I got her running, but I tried real hard to shoot myself in the foot!

After getting the new 12 volt battery, coil and resistor installed I tried to fire it up, but no go. Wouldn't hit at all. Not even try. I had loads of blue white fire and verified that it was getting to the plug.

I reset the timing and it all looked good. Setting timing on a Model A is a long drawn out process that requires a special wrench to turn the cam that opens the points. I scratched my head for a while until it finally dawned on me that I had bought a "new and improved" timing wrench that was supposed to make setting the timing easier. It does actually, but it also will just as easily set the timing 180* out if you use it wrong. Guess what I did?

After setting the timing where it actually needed to be, the engine quite literally fired up without making a complete revolution. I was very impressed with the difference the 12 volt conversion made. With the 6 volt system, everything had to be just right or it was a pain to start. I wouldn't be afraid to try a hand start now. Before, you could have worn yourself out on the crank. Now it starts almost immediately.

Here's a video link of the engine running:

https://youtu.be/8Ff_4Vw6Lx8

I pulled the carb and checked it since the float was sticking when it was dropped off. The Model A carbs are surprisingly complex considering when they were made. They have several jets, air bleeds and emulsification tubes. I made sure they were all clean and the float was working.

I also made a new floor board. The owner misplaced the old one when he was messing with the battery. The battery is under the driver side floor.



I found out on the test drive that the leather gasket on the radiator cap was gone and the car was puking water out the top of the radiator. Luckily, I think I have an extra. I've had to replace it once already and usually buy spares for cheap consumable stuff. It takes too long to wait on little junk like that.

I've also got to track down a couple of non halogen 12 volt sealed beams. This car had a sealed beam conversion done some time ago, but finding regular sealed beams has been a strike out so far. I'm worried that the original headlight switch will be overloaded with the higher current draw of halogens.