Thread: Brake Lines

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Most all I've ever used were Ridgid brand. Both for bending and flaring. Not the cheapest, but they work as they should. My 45* flaring tool is one that my Dad picked up somewhere in the 60's and I can't remember the brand. My 37* tool is Ridgid.

The more expensive bending tools usually have a tighter radius bend. I've used a cheap HF bender on occasion, but they make a large radius bend that might not fit some places. About the only time I use the HF tool is when I'm bending 5/16 tubing for transmission lines. The HF bender is the only one I have in that size. To save some money, I use a 1/4" tool for both 1/4" and 3/16". This hasn't caused any issues.

The Ridgid flaring tools have a slip clutch so that you don't over flare. The idea is to form a seat, but some folks crank the tool down and deform the flare.

Get a decent tubing cutter and be sure to deburr the cut end. I have found that a cheap HF step bit in a cordless drill works great for deburring. You will most likely need a 45* double flare for your truck.

Make sure the flaring tool you get does double flares. This takes additional double flaring spuds to form. Generally the thickness of the flange on the spud is used to measure how far the tubing sticks through the flaring tool. The spud is used to form a swell on the tube and then the spud is removed and the flare folded back into itself. A small drop of oil on the underside of the spud makes the forming go a little easier.

Also, when you are test fitting 45* double flares, don't tighten the fittings up. Just snug them finger tight. The tiny double flare seat in the female part is usually brass and easily damaged. Save the tightening for the final assembly.