Thread: Fab of bottom door panels for 1937 Buick

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Originally Posted by MP&C

I always say use what works for you. In addition to that, always strive for improvement.

The best I have seen is this "no-filler" fusion weld using a TIG machine in this Buick door link below. Absolutely beautiful work and process. Sorry, but you'll need to be a member to view the attachment pictures. Well worth the effort of signing up, as this is about the best process going for door repairs.


Welding buick door - All MetalShaping







In the above link, Richard indicated that he had realized a slight amount of stretch from the serrations of the snips used in cutting the seam. I'm quite sure the edge was touched up with a file to get a perfect seam, but the stretch remained. This slight amount of prestretch was perfect for the MINIMAL amount of shrinking you get with the TIG fusion weld. If it were MIG we would need much more pre-stretch. For your suggestions, I think I would try #1 first, and the amount of stretch needed would be largely determined by the process used. (resulting in trial and error, ie: practice pieces) Anything done in a process should not inflict any more damage to the panel, so I would shy away from the flanging as any creases are more difficult to remove. That's not to say its a "wrong" way to do it, perhaps less preferred due to my perceived notion that it involves extra work. It may in fact require less work, given all the planishing that would be needed otherwise (using MIG). But, referring back to my first statement in this post, use what works for you. And if we're using the MIG, we're dealing with extra work anyhow, let's be honest. If it weren't for you practicing some different methods at the bench in trying to overcome the pitfalls (shrinking from welding) that wouldn't be thrown in the mix as an option. By practicing different methods we find what works the best given the welding process we are using (MIG vs. TIG, filler vs. fusion, etc) The important step for anyone new in the game is understanding what is occurring to be able to make adjustments to deal with any issues. Hence the book I wrote above...

Thanks Robert. Your detailed descriptions and guidance are very much appreciated. Just signed up on Allmetalshaping.com and will check out your link.
Attached is a picture of the back of the door.
The rust goes about 5 inches up the door. I have bee using butt welds for my repairs.
1) For the door bottom, would I be better off using a flanger and creating an overlapping flange at the top of the 5" panel?