Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
Suggest you go back and re-read the instruction sheet that Matt posted regarding the symptom if you don't get the sprag unit properly adjusted. Seems to me that's a perfect description of your problem, but I may be missing something in what you said. Also, your rear calipers are designated L & R. Is it possible for them to be reversed and still hook to the cables and function? The sprag units are threaded LH/RH to "unscrew" tighter with application of the e-brake lever, as I understand.
Quote Originally Posted by jerry clayton
As this gets more and more complex I would resort to a very basic method of chasing down where the faults lie-I would procure a simple master for a single brake port (maybe clutch master?) and with a pressure guage to verify pressure would then check ONE caliper at a time to prove each separate part/ component and then go deeper as I put the complete system together.I'd remove all the valves, combo, residual, delay, porportional, etc and only work with pedal, manual master,etc, etc
I can't disagree with Jerry's approach of proving each component one by one, using a single port master, etc, and I expect it could be done on the bench with a hand full of pre-formed brake lines and simulated rotors, but it seems that you ought to be able to slay the beast on the car. One other thing, it's my impression that you've got to work both rear calipers together unless you take one out and plug that line. I believe that even one rear caliper with the sprag unit down in the bore will "rob" volume from the system and keep you from generating full line pressure.
Good hunting, Navy!