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Jim,
The picture above shows the pins of a SPDT relay which fits into a base that has a wire out for each of the pins. Pin 30 gets your common 12V hot wire which will power the two circuits; Pin 87 will be your 12V+ to your brake lights; Pin 87a is the 12V+ to your lock up converter; Pin 85 goes to ground; and Pin 86 is your 12V+ switched control wire from your mechanical brake light switch which gets it's power from your fuse block "Brake Lights" wire. Wire that fused supply to one side of your brake light switch, then take the piece you cut off of that wire and hook it from the opposite side of the switch running to Pin 86.

Here's a link to The 12Volt, which is an excellent source of understanding basic direct current circuits.
Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT), Single Pole Single Throw (SPST) Automotive Relays

Hope that helps.

Originally Posted by rspears

Jim,
The picture above shows the pins of a SPDT relay which fits into a base that has a wire out for each of the pins. Pin 30 gets your common 12V hot wire which will power the two circuits; Pin 87 will be your 12V+ to your brake lights; Pin 87a is the 12V+ to your lock up converter; Pin 85 goes to ground; and Pin 86 is your 12V+ switched control wire from your mechanical brake light switch which gets it's power from your fuse block "Brake Lights" wire. Wire that fused supply to one side of your brake light switch, then take the piece you cut off of that wire and hook it from the opposite side of the switch running to Pin 86.

Here's a link to The 12Volt, which is an excellent source of understanding basic direct current circuits.
Single Pole Double Throw (SPDT), Single Pole Single Throw (SPST) Automotive Relays

Hope that helps.

Okay Roger, First off yes it helps "A LOT". So you have seen my build thread and we were discussing how I just seem to "have things" when ever I need them? Well here we go again. It's 3AM I'm looking at your relay picture and I say to myself "I wonder if those are the same as the ones I have on my shelf"? I make a low buck version of the painless PN 60122 for fuel injected cars and I have no less than 14 on my shelf. Sure enough BINGO! AND....I needed 2 couplers to remove the switches from the lines as Jerry suggested. Sure enough in my brass fitting drawer there they are. On the flip side; I know I have at least 2 of those mechanical lever activated switches but god only knows where they are. I was able to take the T's out and just take some of the bend out of the line to make it longer and I had to flip the center line around so that the clamp holding it to the frame would still work. All in all pretty darn easy (even for me). Now...where to mount that switch? Hmmm.

Originally Posted by BIG-JIM

I know I have at least 2 of those mechanical lever activated switches but god only knows where they are.

Use the mechanical switch you'll find tomorrow