Thread: 73 charger the saga

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Moving on to the front.

Ik, logged in on the phone

Aha. I managed to post a before view of that passenger fender.

This steaming turd just keeps sucking dollars.

Having chosen to save a thousand dollars by repairing instead of replacing the sheet metal, I've now decided to spend two thousand on a four post lift. Someone talk some sense into me, quick!

That's some pretty extensive internal rusting in the secondary metal seen through that hole. How did you address that before plugging the hole, and how did you ensure that it was all taken care of before closing? Just curious....

I've been thinking hard about a four post lift (one that can move around....) and if my barn walls were taller than 10' it would likely already be here. My trusses are on 10' spacing, so putting a lift sideways in the barn would be OK, and I could put in another big door.... Hmmmmmm.

The door is the easy part.

As for the fender, I replaced the inner brace, pictured in page two. The back (inner) skin got a heavy coat of hi temp rustoleum. If I get motivated I could pull the fender and replace the skin, but I think it's gonna have to ride as it is.

Holy chrome, I just realised I've got an air compressor- I could have put my little siphon sand blast gun to work! Hey, I'm getting a bag of sand.

Exploratory surgery driver's side

That was the rear, here's front fender

I'm getting the hang of posting with this new phone.

Well this fender is a lot better than the passenger side.

Tomorrow I'll pick up some sifted sand (sand box sand) and I'll be on my way to templating some patch panels

I don't know what it is you folk call 'sand box sand', and no doubt I'm preaching to the choir too; but sand for sand blasting should be sand from a crusher, as it is multi-faceted, whereas river sand is rounded, and generates heat.
You've only got to look at rocks from a quarry compared with rocks in a stream to see the difference.

There's been a lot posted in days past about the problems of using sand, and even commercial abrasive grits designed for blasting, with one thing being that they leave behind silicone embedded in the metal surfaces that's all but impossible to remove short of re-blasting with another media. I'm not a blaster, so I'll stop with "I'm not sure you really want to use sand....."

Ok, I'm game. So what media, and where to buy it?

Also, I know why soda blasting residue is bad, the paint won't adhere. But I've blasted with sand many times, no problems ( yes, I do use a respirator ) but what is the problem with silica on the steel?

Originally Posted by firebird77clone

Ok, I'm game. So what media, and where to buy it?

...... but what is the problem with silica on the steel?

All I know is what I've read here, and I think that Shine has provided the best advice over time. I'm pretty sure that he promotes using plastic media, which comes in different sizes (and hardness?), but I don't recall a source being listed. I've seen 5 gallon buckets of plastic media at the Northern Tool outlet, but again I'm not a blaster, don't own the equipment, and have zero experience with it. The stuff sold by Northern Tool may be pure junk - I Do Not Know, get good advice from someone with experience.

Silicosis is one of the biggest issues with using sand, and the residual dust gets everywhere and can be breathed in later, as someone/something disturbs it, like using a compressed air jet to get rid of dust - something we all do without thinking about the source of the "dust". On the surface, silica is a natural form of silicon that’s been slightly oxidized through exposure to oxygen, which forms silicon dioxide (Si02). Residual silica can also cause adhesion problems, as I understand.

wow late to join the thread, at least your able to fix it!