Thread: engine not fired up since rebuild, still ok to start up?

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If this is a flat tappet cam motor, any extreme pressure lubricant that was used on the camshaft and lifters has long since turned to cardboard. After I wrote the following tutorial, it was amended by other savvy hot rodders to the point that I consider it the best flat tappet cam tutorial anywhere. Pull the cam and lifters and start from scratch, would be my best advice. Agree completely with Ted in post #5 above. Try to identify the cam if you can, and use springs that complement the cam and lifters. Iskenderian 205-D springs meet OEM factory replacement specs, with open pressure of 268 lbs @1.200". Use the least pressure that will get the job done.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ips_and_tricks
In #2 and #3, use Isky Rev Lube. It is a molybdenum disulfide compound that will offer max protection until the cam and lifters get happy with each other.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/isk-rl-1
The link for the oil priming tool has gone sour, so use this one....
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pr...fdkaArVo8P8HAQ
The bushing on the bottom of the shaft closes off the oil galley so that you will get oil to both banks of the motor. Using a straight stick with no bushing will allow oil to the driver's side valves only. A 3/8" drill motor will work fine. Stop priming when the drill motor gets good and hot, just before it frags itself.

Here are a couple of other tutorials that I wrote which you should find helpful...

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...stment_SBC/BBC

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...op_dead_center

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