Demano, sorry that your thread is evolving into such a discussion. The point is that we're not the OEM designers, so we have to live with what they put together for the line of vehicles that they were building, and don't have the luxury of setting the engine at whatever angle we want, and then "adjusting" the carb angle to bring it to level. Most OEM designs had the driveline at around a three degree downward tilt, tailshaft down, and then the carb angle tilted nominal three degrees pitched forward so that it was very near level on level ground. What makes sense to most of us is to set your motor mounts and transmission mounts such that the carb surface is level, making certain that the chassis is set up as you intend it to be in the final status - decide your tires, decide your suspension "attitude", and like Tech said at the get go,
Quote Originally Posted by techinspector1
Once you have the body attitude like you want it, install the motor with the carb pad level. This will normally equate to about a 3 degree down-bubble on your angle finder when faced off a crank pulley or transmission output shaft (less yoke). Install the rearend with the pinion at a 1-2 degree up-bubble. This will leave 1 or 2 degrees for the pinion to climb the ring gear under cruising power and result in a 0 differential of angle between the crankshaft centerline and the pinion centerline as viewed from the side of the vehicle.
Now you can set it up to some other criteria, and try to figure out how to level your carb for best operation, but if you simply set it up like Tech advised you're going to find that your driveline angles are going to be at or very near what they were in the OEM design that your engine came out of, and that's pretty good in my book.