Thread: 454 2bolt hi-po question

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here some things to think about from a guy that builds and machines engines every day from what i see . most guys think a port match gasket must happen. false engine will not care. if you do it wrong make something that ok to alot on money and time to fix a bad job. any thing under 500 hp it not realy worth much if you do it right . but i will go down this road some. you need to know where the intake fits on the block just hanging a gasket off the head or intake will get you close . when heads are bolted down you may need to cut intake or go thicker gasket to get your ports line up you my find that there some shift side to side from intake ports to dowles on block . many more.. not going to list them. i do a fair amount of intake and head work yesterday day i spent most of the day cutting a intake out as it mosty a custom cast intake made for race only heads to fit 3 brands of heads were port can be oval to rect port .my rule is it always better to have the intake a bit small better for fuel and air somewhat helps if you get any reversion wave up the intake port . as for blending and bowl work is a wast of time by hand .if you have never done it you have angles on valve and valve seats the 45 is what your engine will be may time race stuff can be face seat angle of 45. 55.50 the valve job should be done first then blend off the last angle this has alot to do with what machine and cutters or stones .to do the valve job with . seat /guide machine or with stones .when cutting a new raw head i use cutter that will let me form all the seat . lest angle of one to 5 angles at one shot so that is why i said bowling them is wast of your time if the machine shop has the machine to do this work .by hand u can hit the main seating face angle and rune the valve job. when i know it stock job i use 3 angle cutter and is a 45 angle i use a 3 angle like 30.45.65. cutter if guy wants more then stock or wants to do bowl work. i us one of my race cutter after i am done a can go deeper with a cutter that cuts the better part of the bowl .if
my last angle of cut .then there not much hand work to do. i finish the clean up if needed by hand blend work die grinder .i have seen heads turn to junk or at the lest a new valve by a guy with a die grinder. many times i hand roll my angles up to the bottom of the 45 face angle this job is very tricky at best one wrong move then seat will have to be re ground if stone or reface with cutter. for this fine work i used a mounted point on a die grinder i use MX/ craytex grit they rubber/grit mount points were you can do fine work and not worry about a sanding roll come loose and hitting the face of the 45. a word about lapping valves you must make sure there is no lapping grit on valve face and valve seat has you used it to seat angle s the grit hanging around it can screw up valve work i use a very fine grit .i some times lapping the valve only to see the lay out or if the finish some seats with the metal make up of the seat finish could be a bit better i use a very fine clover like 600 grit when done i wash valves then go over the face with a scrub pad gray 3m fine .with titaniums valves i do not lap i lay out the read out to were valve is hitting the valve seat with a marker with felt chisel tip like 1/4 tip