Thread: What's it worth?
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01-19-2014 09:57 AM #1
What's it worth?
Hey guys (and gals), It's been a long time since I posted, like 6 years. At that time I was working on a 50 Chevy pickup bed for a buddy. I also posted that I wanted to get into hot rodding, but hadn't found the right project. A working colleague came up with a car that his family had had since the late 40's. He brought it home and it has been sitting for nearly 3 years now. His parents have both passed now and he has started bringing all the vehicles home that he wants to restore, basically three old tractors. He said the other day he didn't think he had the money to do what he wanted to fix them. I told him if he sold me the 35 Ford that would help. Surprisingly, he said he would consider selling the 35 to me. The he says "what's it worth?", thus my post here. I have no idea.
It's a complete 35 ford Coupe, rough, but basically all there.
2001 A4 coupe, Corsa, HalTech CAI, Custom Magnetic Red/Oak interior by Mid America Motorworks
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01-19-2014 10:41 AM #2
Looks like a 36 to me, at least has a 36 grille. I'm not an expert on 35-36's but I believe if it has a large X stamped into the cowl side under the hood then its a 36.
Hard to see the if it has a lot of rust in floors etc. but if it's pretty solid in those areas, around here it would probably bring around $8,000 to $10,000.
Mick
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01-19-2014 11:26 AM #3
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01-19-2014 11:45 AM #4
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01-19-2014 04:54 PM #5
Looks and sounds like a great project. Good luck on getting it. Whats it worth ????Charlie
Lovin' what I do and doing what I love
Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
W8AMR
http://fishertrains94.webs.com/
Christian in training
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01-19-2014 05:30 PM #6
"Worth" is a difficult term to define. If it's marketed widely and well you might find someone who will give you the $8-10K that LurkerMick says it would bring up in the NE area. I've seen it said that "book" on a '36 needing full restoration is in the $3K range. Here's one in Rapid City, a running, driving original for $5900 asking - 1936 Ford Coupe For Sale Rapid City, South Dakota For me, one in the shape of the one you posted would be much less than $3000, and likely less than $2000. A friend had a '40 Plymouth 2dr sedan that had rock rash on the right fenders, interior totally trashed by years of storage under a leaky lean-to and it sold for $800. For this '36 Ford I would hope to load it on a trailer for something around the $1200 to $1800 range and not feel too bad about paying too much, or for paying too little.Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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01-19-2014 05:42 PM #7
I agree it definitely appears to be a 36. Looks like a great project but judging from the rust on the deck lid, you'll probably find some in the floors and various other places. That's not meant to be discouraging, just stuff you'll have to repair.
Your plans for it sound great! I know you're probably a Chevy guy but don't rule out the possibility of powering it with a Ford engine....ok, maybe it's a little more work to do that but.....can ya tell I'm a Ford guy?? No doubt those LS engines are nice so I'll just shut up and be supportive whichever way you go.
For what it's worth, my family sold a '36 tudor humpback sedan in Texas about 3 years ago for $2500. It wasn't in a good a shape as this coupe."It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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01-20-2014 06:07 AM #8
Actually, I haven't ruled out the idea of keeping the flathead either. I do like the looks of an early 60's hot rod. Just thinking that it would make it more "driveable" if it had updated suspension, AC and the nice amenities. It's all for not, if I can't buy it though. I don't think he's in any hurry to sell and I've got to find a place to do the work, my garage is full, well I prefer that my pickup sit inside.2001 A4 coupe, Corsa, HalTech CAI, Custom Magnetic Red/Oak interior by Mid America Motorworks
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01-20-2014 06:26 AM #9
Before starting to read your text I glanced at the first pic and thought "..ah, a '36." based on the right rear fender and hood trim that were visible. I'm with Randy that that trunk lid rust would indicate much more rust to be found, though a thorough inspection is obviously in order to really give you good advice. Without seeing it in person I'll guarantee you the rear fenders are rusted through where they attach to the running boards. But, based on what's evident I'd fall in between Roger and Mick. Mick's number is in line with what we see out west with moderately (yeah that's a relative term, to a Michigander moderate means there's still about 100 pounds of steel left) rusted rigs. Roger's number would be right for a heavy (again, by western standards) rust infested car. That being said just a couple items as examples: That grille looks like it might be the coveted "one piece" grille which, if in near perfect condition could sell for $1000 by itself. Rear fenders on these are unique to coupes and roadsters which makes them more valuable than the more common sedan ones. That left rear looks pretty bad from what I can see of it though in the right hands almost any of these can be saved. They're valuable enough that Bob Drake is reproducing them in steel, the first ones should be available in the next few months. IIRC he's going to be around $700 each on them. A little higher than nice originals, but not by much. Last suggestion is check the frame. The usual weakest point is toward the rear where the X member intersects the side rails. Mud would get packed in there and over time eat through, as well as the rear body mount in the same area on the outside of the rail. Lots of opportunity to get laid away on these, but also lot's of upside because it's a coupe with a trunk rather than rumble. If it's not too bad rust wise (again, western standards) I'd put it around $5k....more if it's better than I'm guessing, or less (as in pass on it except to part out) if it's worse.Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon
It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.
Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.
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01-20-2014 06:26 AM #10
"It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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01-20-2014 10:29 AM #11
Wow the real question is what would it cost to buy a fiberglass repop body, on a rolling chassis, that would solve all the rust and suspension, brakes, modern engine ready status, steering, chassis mod issues. I state this because whenever I see a car like this my heart speeds up, I dream of potential, just like when I bought my truck. & years later, now that my chassis is o.k., my brakes converted, my rear end replaced I have more into the truck than what a rolling chassis set up for modern applications and safety would have cost, and am just now getting to where I could have started 7 years ago. I know the process is part of it, but so is the expense and time you'll put into something like this. Some times you need to assess you body/sheet metal skills, vs. cost of sending that out, at which point you may decide to start with something a bit easier to begin with. All that said I don;'t regret my process on the truck as I've learned a ton along the way from folks here on this site. Just my two cents worth especially if it's gonna cost 8-10k in present shape." "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.
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01-20-2014 12:22 PM #12
A quick way to tell if it is '36 is if it has 'wide5' wheels.
With clean title, I'd be asking 8K probably it'd fetch 6K no problem. That is a nice survivor and would make a beautiful cruiser with a merc flattie and a pair of strombergs. Its only original once, I'd be doing anything possible to keep what is there, paint and all. They get expensive building them that way, just warning you.A Carter Carb Shop, sales & service
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01-20-2014 08:32 PM #13
Thanks again guys for the advise. I'll be talking to him again here soon. As I said, it really shocked me when he even considered selling it. But he has so many of these vehicles from his parents that he wants to restore, but he is really more interested in the tractors and the old IH 1 ton truck. The 36 and the 56 Ford (2 door sedan) are on the back, back, back burner and he and I both know he'll NEVER get to them. He actually talked to his plan for the 36 would be to "restore to original" and he knows my intentions would be to not "restore but to restofy". I wouldn't feel to comfortable driving the car very much with the mechanical brakes, so updating those would be a priority. And if you're doing that, then update the running gear and suspension and so on and so forth.
Randyr I know you weren't necessarily talking the flathead. And I realize there are lots of Ford engines that would work. But as you so astutely noted, I am a Chevy guy. Not sure how you might have figured that one out....I never really said that I was..... Maybe it was the Corvette?
He and I have been friends for 32 years and I get the feeling that he might make me a deal. But I don't want to screw him either.
Thanks specifically in the areas to look for on these cars. If there are other specific things/places please post them up as I will be looking at it again.
Just for reference, We are both high school shop teachers, he's the auto-welding-sheetmetal guy, I'm the woodworking-drafting/design guy. We have been teaching together for 32 years, right across the hall from one another. Pictures above were taken in the shop, although he took the car home about two years ago. We help each other out all the time. In reality, I think he realizes that I might actually get to doing the car.2001 A4 coupe, Corsa, HalTech CAI, Custom Magnetic Red/Oak interior by Mid America Motorworks
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01-20-2014 08:54 PM #14
Well, Tom, lets just say I have a keen insight for the obvious!!! Maybe it was your user name Toms94 or maybe the license plate in your avatar "94 Z07" but combine either of those with dreamy pic of your Corvette by the lake and there was no doubt in my mind that you're a Chevy guy!!!
Well, be that as it may, everybody sticks a Chevy motor in these things so if you really want to be unique, put a Ford in a Ford! I'm thinking the 5.0 Coyote with a 6sp!
What a great story of your history with this guy! Hopefully you get the "Friends & Family" discount and he can help you build it! It's going to be sweet!! You gotta post lots of pics!"It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells
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01-21-2014 05:15 AM #15
Welcome to CHR. I think that you need to hook up your vacuum advance. At part throttle when cruising you have less air and fuel in each cylinder, and the air-fuel mixture is not as densely packed...
MSD 8360 distributor vacuum advance