Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 
Like Tree1Likes

Thread: fresh rebuilt 350 overheating rapidly and extremely low oil pressure
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 15 of 24

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gardner, KS
    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
    Posts
    11,244

    Heater hoses can't affect your cooling except in extremes. Your heater valve might not open against reverse flow, but the only impact would be no heat. I'd say that you have air trapped in the cooling system, which will block coolant flow. Some Jeep models are known to trap air and have to be nose high to get the air out, either parked on a steep uphill slope or jacked up to an extreme. Later models had a 1/2" pipe plug in a high point in the radiator hose, and factory instructions were to fill, start the engine and remove the plug to allow all air to escape, then quickly put the plug back in place and run the engine at 3000rpm for a minute or two to purge any remaining air. I always drill a ~1/8" hole in the t-stat plate to let the air out of the block during fill, but you mentioned you've pulled the stat so there's no restriction there.

    You mentioned the cooling fan clutch. The thermostatic clutches are known to fail over time, but you should be able to hear if it's engaged or not by the roar of the extra load. I can't say this is right, but from another forum:
    The way I diagnose a fan clutch is pretty simple. Start with the car off. Jiggle the fan forward and back. If there is any play at the clutch shaft, its bad. Give the fan a spin. It should move freely, but stop almost instantly, as if the clutch were filled with mashed potatoes. Start the engine. The fan should turn pretty briskly; almost as fast as the crank. Now use a rolled up newspaper to gently try and stop the fan. You should be able to when its cool. Throw away the ruined newspaper Rev the engine, you should notice that the fan increases speed, but not proportionally to the crank speed. The clutch is full of viscous fluid, so the air friction on the fan starts overcoming the friction of the fluid in the clutch and it stops accelerating with the engine. The fan won't roar. Then let it get hot. You might have to drive it around some stop and go streets to get it to lock up the clutch. Now when you acclerate, you should hear the fan roaring a little louder. If you stop the car, shut off the engine, and try to spin the fan, it shouldn't move.
    A bad fan clutch won't come into play quickly. If you're seeing a rapid temperature increase you've got a flow problem, IMO.
    Last edited by rspears; 10-27-2013 at 07:47 PM.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink