Thread: Brakes - bled completely & pedal is still soft?

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For drum brakes I always ran the star nutz out until the drum won't quite go on, then bank the adjuster off a couple clicks, and slide the drum on.

Then, the final step of the bleeding process, drive out o the end of the driveway, and punch it in reverse; bring the car to a stop by jabbing the brakes two or three times. This lets the self adjusters put the drums in perfect.

To answer your previous question on the master cylinder:

With the bleeder screws tight, and the cover off the master, just slowly pump the pedal, and quickly release. Any residual air will bubble out.

Ok,
front brakes are way out of adjustment(why the pedal stayed soft) and the rears were closer but, still not great. Working on that and will re-bleed. I did find through frame junctions in the brake lines (mentioned earlier)....what's the best way to get the air out of those little buggers?

Originally Posted by Mack57

Ok,
front brakes are way out of adjustment(why the pedal stayed soft) and the rears were closer but, still not great. Working on that and will re-bleed. I did find through frame junctions in the brake lines (mentioned earlier)....what's the best way to get the air out of those little buggers?

Mack,
If it were mine I'd get the shoes adjusted and see where you are. Through the frame fittings (the one's for boxed frames about 2.5"-3" end to end) are not a problem in themselves, but there were a bunch on the market a few years back that were machined such that they formed an air pocket in the middle that was just about impossible to get cleared out. Can't recall for sure, but I think they were a larger tube tapped on each end for AN fittings, and the large ID trapped air. I think Street Rodder did a tech article on them? Might have it in the barn stash of old mags, but not sure.