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03-25-2013 02:19 PM #1
Door vibrations while driving 41 Willys fiberglass cab. how to stop it?
So my Willys has yet another issue I am addressing. The doors have an issue rattling as I go down the road. The rattling has been so bad in fact that it has cracked the skin on the doors. The doors are now off and being fixed at the body shop, now I must address what caused it (or at least what I think caused it).
My first thought is weather stripping. The thing is that weather stripping is not exactly very pretty. While its not a show vehicle it does have suicide doors, which will be propped at shows. Maybe I can pull off some sort of weather stripping but I want it to look good. Im not to sure what else to go to in order to prevent this issue again. I have even thought about some sort of small rubber adhesive stop, but I am not to sure what will work and stay attatched. I feel like I am posting alot, but I have about 50 different projects going on with this truck at once.
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03-25-2013 02:40 PM #2
You may have a structural problem. Can you describe the internal steel bracing in your body, how it ties to the body to frame mount points, and what type of latch you have up front? Your doors should be hanging from steel that's tied down to the frame via the body bolts, and latching to steel also tied down to the frame. While it does stop rattles, the weatherstripping is there mainly to stop water and dust, not to provide structural integrity.Last edited by rspears; 03-25-2013 at 03:07 PM.
Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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03-25-2013 05:17 PM #3
On my '32 Brookville the doors rattled when I first got it. I found that the builder must have screwed up and left out the rubber bumpers that are supposed to be pushed into rectangular holes cut in the body in two spots and when I got those bumpers from Brookville and pushed them in, all the rattling stopped. Of course my body is steel, but I think if it was fiberglass such a rattle could cause cracking. If you don't already have cutouts for such rubber bumpers, I'd look into Dremel'ing a couple on each door sill, finishing up the hole edge per good f'glass practice (not sure what that is but I'm picturing a raw hole not being good to leave as is). If there isn't already a bumper designed for your specific body/door you'll have to be creative and find one that can be made to work and still let the door sit flush. Just for reference, here's what my bumpers look like:
Nick
Brookville '32 hi-boy roadster
TriStar Pro Star 427 CID
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03-26-2013 10:49 AM #4
Being that they are suicide doors, do you have the "dead bolt" type lock that goes from the front of the door into the jamb after you are in the car.
They might be the thing to help secure the door from vibration along with good rubber.
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03-27-2013 12:58 PM #5
Good responses here thank you! Im not sure what the doors are tied into as I did not build the truck from the ground up, nor have I had the interior apart to see. They are however hung with some pretty heavy hinges in the back that must be tied into some steel somewhere as they are very sturdy and do not move at all. There are 2 hinges for each door as well. There is also metal bracing tied through the door and wood structure inside from side to side to strenghten the door up.
As for those rubber stops in your door sill could you post some pictures of those installed? I have nothing like that, its kind of what I had imagined.
I do have the deadbolt installed in the front with the suicide doors, its pretty solid as well. I need some sort of weather stripping or stop as was said here as I have nothing currently.
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03-27-2013 02:41 PM #6
Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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03-27-2013 04:41 PM #7
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03-27-2013 01:23 PM #8
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The inner structure isn't cracked as well, is it tbucket?Ryan
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
1972 Chevy K30 Longhorn P-pumped 24v Compound Turbos 47RH Just another money pit
1971 Camaro RS 5.3 BTR Stage 3 cam, SuperT10
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03-27-2013 02:45 PM #9
Thats the other thing there, so far no leads on who built the body. The truck was built by some shop in Kentucky, I can try and contact the former owner but he didn't know very much about it either. Its been kind of passed on and was never really finished right.
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03-27-2013 04:56 PM #10
Seems to me that at some point you're going to have to start taking things apart enough to see what you've got. Heading into the cruising season is not the ideal time, but pulling your interior panels, etc, to see how it's built is likely going to be the only way you'll really know. That's assuming you're doing your own work, and that you want to know. It's not comforting, but shiny paint and nice interior panels can hide all kinds of issues if you didn't see a build book photo journal or know the builder.Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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03-28-2013 03:27 PM #11
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03-28-2013 03:29 PM #12
Roger
Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.
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03-28-2013 03:35 PM #13
Im not sure how they were actually designed to be hinged with the glass body and doors, I can say theres not alot to bolt to up front. The door its self may weigh about 75lbs without the glass in it. It is a truck body, the actual hinges and everything seem to work pretty well being suicide.
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03-27-2013 04:59 PM #14
Here's one of the bumpers like I posted above pushed into the cutout in the body; there are two per door.
Nick
Brookville '32 hi-boy roadster
TriStar Pro Star 427 CID
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03-28-2013 03:29 PM #15





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