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Thread: Tip for a smelly garage!
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    curmudgeon's Avatar
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    Tip for a smelly garage!

     



    My wife has complained for sometime now about the gasoline smell in the garage, so I have been trying to find a cure and I think I have!
    Both of my cars have a 1/4" ID vent hose from the tank top exiting under the car.
    I found a Dorman #47149 vacuum check valve in the Help Section at my parts store. It's very small and fits the 1/4" line.
    It draws enough air while driving and doesn't restrict fuel flow.
    The Smell is Gone!

    "It's good enough for who it's for!"

  2. #2
    cffisher's Avatar
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    good idea what happens with contraction, as fuel dose both???
    Charlie
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    Some guys can fix broken NO ONE can fix STUPID
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  3. #3
    curmudgeon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cffisher View Post
    good idea what happens with contraction, as fuel dose both???
    Expandtion could flood carb I suppose, contraction just sucks air thru check valve. I need suggestions on a small charcoal canister, maybe for a motorcycle.
    Thanks!

    "It's good enough for who it's for!"

  4. #4
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    Good fix I thought you were going to say[light a match].
    Jack F likes this.

  5. #5
    Babyburr's Avatar
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    WD-40 always works for me

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by curmudgeon View Post
    Expandtion could flood carb I suppose, contraction just sucks air thru check valve. I need suggestions on a small charcoal canister, maybe for a motorcycle.
    Thanks!
    Contraction is not your problem, as it's sucking air into the tank to replace fuel burned, or due to decreasing vapor pressure due to cooling. Expansion (or a leak) is what causes the fumes. That vent has to work both ways, so a check valve may seem to fix your problem but is going to pressurize your tank with increasing vapor pressures, especially in the summer. Dave (IC2) already shared his experience in your earlier post, including the fact that the charcoal canister doesn't work for a vented system, and his solution, which was a coil of tubing in the vent routing. Seems to me you have the answer, or at least one that worked for Dave.
    Last edited by rspears; 11-23-2012 at 09:41 AM.
    cffisher likes this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the big things....

  7. #7
    curmudgeon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    Contraction is not your problem, as it's sucking air into the tank to replace fuel burned, or due to decreasing vapor pressure due to cooling. Expansion (or a leak) is what causes the fumes. That vent has to work both ways, so a check valve may seem to fix your problem but is going to pressurize your tank with increasing vapor pressures, especially in the summer. Dave (IC2) already shared his experience in your earlier post, including the fact that the charcoal canister doesn't work for a vented system, and his solution, which was a coil of tubing in the vent routing. Seems to me you have the answer, or at least one that worked for Dave.
    I have a coil of tubing in my vent line just above my tank, that doesn't seem to help. Someone on the H.A.M.B. suggested attaching a fuel filter w/1/4" fittings to the vent line so the tank could breath. That seems to help, but it's not the cure all.
    It was also suggested to run a vent line as high above the tank as I could and create a 180 then back down, kind of like a upside down J trap. I don't see how that would make any difference.
    Again, the fuel filter on the end of the vent line does seem to help!
    ANY OTHER IDEAS?????

    "It's good enough for who it's for!"

  8. #8
    rspears's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by curmudgeon View Post
    I have a coil of tubing in my vent line just above my tank, that doesn't seem to help. Someone on the H.A.M.B. suggested attaching a fuel filter w/1/4" fittings to the vent line so the tank could breath. That seems to help, but it's not the cure all.
    It was also suggested to run a vent line as high above the tank as I could and create a 180 then back down, kind of like a upside down J trap. I don't see how that would make any difference.
    Again, the fuel filter on the end of the vent line does seem to help!
    ANY OTHER IDEAS?????
    What type of line runs from the tank to the engine? Some braided tubing tends to "breathe" a bit if it doesn't have the right core materials. I think that's where the odor comes from on mine, using the Russel Pro-Classic hose.

    Another thought is that the fumes may be from your engine. If your float level is high you might be dribbling raw fuel into the intake, which will then vaporize and create a strong odor. Any small leak at the carb can cause the odor, too.
    Last edited by rspears; 11-23-2012 at 12:32 PM.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the big things....

  9. #9
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    Baring any leaks as "spears" mentioned above, try an opened bag of charcoal briquets, the briquets will absorb most odors (to a tolerable level at least).

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Babyburr View Post
    WD-40 always works for me
    WHAT!! I'm sorry, I don't get it.

    "It's good enough for who it's for!"

  11. #11
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    May have to look for one that fits your application better, but how about a fuel tank vent valve.

    Chevy Tahoe Fuel Tank Vent Valve - AM Autoparts
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  12. #12
    rspears's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pro70z28 View Post
    May have to look for one that fits your application better, but how about a fuel tank vent valve.
    Isn't that a simple rollover check valve, to prevent fuel leaking from the vent if inverted?
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the big things....

  13. #13
    curmudgeon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rspears View Post
    Contraction is not your problem, as it's sucking air into the tank to replace fuel burned, or due to decreasing vapor pressure due to cooling. Expansion (or a leak) is what causes the fumes. That vent has to work both ways, so a check valve may seem to fix your problem but is going to pressurize your tank with increasing vapor pressures, especially in the summer. Dave (IC2) already shared his experience in your earlier post, including the fact that the charcoal canister doesn't work for a vented system, and his solution, which was a coil of tubing in the vent routing. Seems to me you have the answer, or at least one that worked for Dave.
    Thanks Roger for bringing Dave's(IC2) thread up. I went back to re-read it and found I missed the last 2 pages!
    Lots of good info in that thread!!
    Joe

    "It's good enough for who it's for!"

  14. #14
    curmudgeon's Avatar
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    29project57.jpg29project56.jpg29project53.jpg29project58.jpg29project50.jpgOK! Here is what I have and have done today! Hope the hell it works! I used a puke tank and screened the lines inside and filled it with activated charcoal and attached it to a fuel filter and then on to the curley-q on top of the tank!
    Last edited by curmudgeon; 11-24-2012 at 02:51 PM.

    "It's good enough for who it's for!"

  15. #15
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    Might want to attach a data plate next to the coil, EVERYONE is going to ask about it.
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

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