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Hi. getting back in to trying to build a 37 Ford Tudor. My Wife likes shaved doors on another 37 she saw. My question is: Are there solinoids out there or a kit that would work on the original latches in the 37 Ford door?? I see a bunch of kits on ebay. I wouldn't want to get the wrong one.. Thanks.. Al
Not sure if they have a soleniod for stock latches. Most shaved handles have a bear claw latch. They do not need much pressure to open so a solenoid will easily operate the latch.
Best way to determine if stock latches will work with a solenoid is to take a fish scale, pull the latch till it releases, note the weight of the pull required, make sure the solenoids exceed that amount of pull....
and the usual eBay warning, make sure you're buying from a reputable company that doesn't hype the data on their product!!!!!
Dave & I were typing at the same time, and he's right about the pull power, but I agree with Sunset. I don't think I've ever seen remotes on stock latches. You may be able to find a solenoid strong enough to pull them but if you're investing the time and work into shaving the handles why not improve your safety with bear claw latches, too?
Thanks. I will check with someone like Yogi's or Summit Racing.. Al
i used a door lock solinoids out of a older gm car from the 80s you can move a car with that solinoid abit loud but works great
You might look at some of the smaller, street rod specific places too, like maybe Watson's Streetworks, or Sachse Rod Shop in Texas. They've got a lot of more "special" parts.Quote:
Originally Posted by slantback37
There is no way I would consider keeping those original latches and strikes - they were a poor, weak design 75 years ago, and probably dangerous now with weak springs and general wear and slop. Use the positive acting double bear claw design, add that remote actuated solenoid, shave the outside handle and be done with that problem. Yep, gonna cost some more bucks, but the originals were/are not safe in today's world
That is what I was going to ask next. Do you think the original latches are safe?? Does a company like Bear Claw make latches for my 37 Ford Tudor?? , or do I have to cut and fit??
Slantback,Quote:
Originally Posted by slantback37
Bear claw is a type of latch, not a manufacturer. Many different makers out there, and each will be to some degree cut, fit & weld. Rocky Hinge is a great choice, and it looks like you can add power to their latch for $20 - Bear Claw Latches & Installation Kits
Let me add some to Roger's post (also like Rocky Hinge Co)
There are actually a couple of different size bear claw latches plus some variations. One with a single rotor which is generally used for light duty and trunk releases. I have the light duty version on my '31 simply because the roadster door just is not thick enough to use the larger two rotor version.
Then, these, regardless of manufacturer, will require a fair amount of fabrication. Not difficult, but time consuming and probably more so on an original '37 door. But, with that said, if you are going to 'shave' the handles, no more difficult.
I believe that Rocky has an integral solenoid version - all you would have to do is hook up either a remote push button switch or a key fob radio version. I have an unused Autoloc one of those that I keep dragging out trying to figure where I can use it - and it is for sale (no solenoids) and reasonably priced.
One thing to remember is make sure you have a mechanical pull to open the door .........just in case you ever get a dead battery. Usually you can hide a cable under the door somewhere that connects to the door lever.
I'll have to think over where a wire would go. Closed car. Running boards will be in the way. i was looking at these right now.Large Bear Claw Latch Kit I figure with this kit it would help match up everything easier..
Why not this one, which has everything you're wanting - Power Bear Claw Latches With Manual Safety Locks
The wire goes through the door frame about half way up, usually below the door stop and in a loom Braided Stainless Wire Looms. There are also contact sets, but they are often not too great Dakota Digital Door ContactsQuote:
Originally Posted by slantback37
Dave,Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
I thought he was wondering about an emergency release "wire"/cable as opposed to electrical signal wires, but I could be wrong? As for the contacts to eliminate wires across the hinge gap, I've seen more of those abandoned after a time than I've seen working right.
Well Maybe I should only put in new latches. I want the doors to be safe. Only thing I really don't like about my exsiting mechs. is the fact that the keyed lock is on the passengers side. With these new latches, and if I just stayed with the original handles. Will it all work?? With the one that rspears showed me. Could I use the regular handles, and use them for power locks?? Didn't see anything as far as a fob to remotly pop the locks..
Roger -Quote:
Originally Posted by rspears
That cable could go though the same or a separate wire loom, but end up in the front wheel well
Those @#$% contacts depend on perfect, repeatable door alignment and no corrosion - a virtual impossibility on a 75 y.o. car without new or rebuilt hinges and solid structure.
If buying either kit. Should I also get Bear Claw Latch Installation Kit Would this help with the install, or isn't needed??
You need the 'kit' - it has the correctly sized panel with the cut outs for the latchesQuote:
Originally Posted by slantback37