coolent temp fe

ok guys i need help i have posted this concern here before i have a 61 galaxie 352fe rebuilt 200 miles ago :3dSMILE: i run 210-225:HMMM: no matter what i do its a mec guage in the intake stock location so i no that is the tru temp. 180 thermosdat (have tried 160 and no stat) i have a big oversized aluminum rad electric 16" procomp fan the engine has and over sized proformer cam intake and carb msd 6a box wires and a petronix ignitor 2 with no vacume advance. i have asked this question before on here everbody said timeing issue the timming seems way advanced to me but i backed it down a bit and it made it run terable when warmed up and it ran hotter temp (i think me timeing pointer may be bent) im going to run it to tdc and check and corect that if needed but my question is do you think that a timeing issue will cause these temps and are FE blocks known for this thanks and dont be to hard on me lol:eek:

and yes the head gaskets are not backwards lol thank God

Why no vacuum advance?

Are you sure you don't have air trapped in the system? I ended up drilling a 1/8" hole in the thermostat plate and positioned that straight up when I installed it in the gooseneck to be sure the air had way out. Did you use a new stock water pump in your rebuild?

its a reman pump thats all that i can find for a 61 and i dont think there is air in the system because i have had it apart so many times and has sat enough that i would have got it out by now

Do i need a vacume advance will that help keep it kooler

does anyone make a 19'' electric fan or are you saying put a mecanical on it

when does it overheat ? as you are driving it or as it sits and idles .. it should`nt over heat going down the road even without a fan ..and hotter weather plays a big role

You need to undertsnad the "true temps" you are seeing. The sending unit is right up or near the top hose outlet, so as the coolant circulates it picks up all the heat from the internal metal and takes it up to the radiator for cooling.
But as it passes the sending unit , you have to realize the coolant will be at its hottest point. So yea, the gauge will read those hotter temps and send them to the gauge. But inside the block the internal metals should be cooler and also the fact that the coolant temps you are getting ,are temps of coolant that's leaving the motor, not whats in it.
If the radiator, fan and pump are doing there job, the coolant temps coming back into the motor in the bottom hose should be 15-20 deg cooler. The gauge is a good thing to have but you must understand what it reads and how it gets those readings.

One thing I've not seen mentioned is a radiator fan shroud - do you have a shroud to force the air pulled by the fan through the radiator vs around the sides of the fan? And like Hoss says, does it still overheat driving down the open highway?

I get fans from GT_RECYCLER, a seller on Ebay---he has a 19 incher on auction right now plus dozens of others--prompt shipment, custom packaging---I boight several and deal direct now but he has a lot of info on his auctions---check him out

Check Ebay item 220796149863

You will want the size fan that will best fit the size of the fin area on your radiator...but in addition to looking at the fan diameter, it's equally important to make sure it has a high CFM rating. I've seen some of these large fans that don't flow much more then about 1500 CFM--IMO for proper cooling with an electric fan you should have at least 2000 CFM. The core and fin size of the radiator is important to cooling also, as well as if it's a single, double, or triple pass radiator. With all the different companies selling aluminum radiators and electric cooling fans, there should be a lot of specs that go into selecting the proper components other then just the price......Also, as Roger mentioned, shrouding the radiator is important---if all the air coming in the front of the car passes over, under, or around the radiator it's not going to be doing much cooling of the radiator!!! A final thought, there also needs to be enough open area to allow the hot air surrounding the engine to exit the engine compartment.....

ok well im going to build a shroud for it and see what happens and then i will let you no thanks and also at those temps when would you shut it down how hot

a good indication of how much air flow from a electric fan is the amps it draws

the fan says its a 2650cfm! so i guess will see how it acts with a shroud